Photos: Critic’s Choice: Restaurants for grown-ups

Vic Casanova's tribute to the East Coast Italian steakhouse genre is all dark wood, white tablecloths, big red wines and beef.

Vic Casanova’s tribute to the East Coast Italian steakhouse genre is all dark wood, white tablecloths, big red wines and beef.   (Luis Sinco / Los Angeles Times)

Share

In the midst of holiday potlucks, family get-togethers and craft fairs, sometimes you need a shot of glamour. You want to celebrate in high style. You want tablecloths, Champagne, a thrilling menu and a special bottle of wine. You want, in short, a grown-up restaurant.

Pistola

One of the steaks at Pistola: a porterhouse steak for two.   (Luis Sinco / Los Angeles Times)

Spago

Spago, where the main dining area features a wine wall, has old glamour at the holidays.  (Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times)

Spago

Single fried oyster in a moss ring on a rock at Spago.  (Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times)