Luis Sinco / Los Angeles Times
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At Empress Pavilion in Chinatown, it's not 1991, but not bad either

Empress Pavilion is the biggest restaurant in Chinatown, a glittery, hangar-size seafood palace built at the height of the late 1980s boom. In its early years, you would typically wait an hour or more for a table on dim sum Sunday mornings, and in the evenings, the vast hall would be subdivided...

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