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Rogue Hazelnut Brown Nectar

When the weather cools down, malty brown ales really come into their own, and malt is mostly what this one is about. For the interest of beer geeks, the label lists all the ingredients, and they include eight varieties of malt and just two of hops. That proportion gives a pretty good picture of flavor -- just enough hops to cut a lot of malty richness.

There's a good deal of dried fruit (raisins, prunes) in the aroma of this dark reddish copper brew, but it also contains some hazelnut extract, which shows up as an intriguing aftertaste.

Like all brown ales, this goes well with roasts and grills, but above all it's a roast beef beer.

-- Charles Perry

Price: About $6 for a 22-ounce bottle

Style: A comfortable malty ale for autumn with a saucy bit of hazelnut in the finish.

Where you find it: Beverages & More, www.bevmo.com; Hi-Time Wine Cellars in Costa Mesa, (949) 650-8463 or (800) 331-3005; Ramirez Liquor, Los Angeles (323) 261-2915, www.ramirez; and Red Carpet Wine in Glendale, (800) 339-0609, www.redcarpetm.

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