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Pigs ears and vampiros: Jonathan Gold finds 7 good tacos with a surprise inside

Can’t you just cruise down to the corner of Venice and La Brea, order a couple of tacos al pastor from the Leo’s truck, and be happy as a well-stuffed clam? (I’ll have mine con piña, por favor.) After a week in the godless confines of New York or Boston, aren’t the chicken tacos at King Taco good...

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