Expat comfort food: The quirky mix at L.A.'s Hong Kong-style coffee shops

POLISHING off their cream-filled crepes and fruit smoothies, the after-movie crowd at Garden Café drifts homeward around 1 a.m. But by 3 a.m., a fresh wave of customers -- most in goth-inspired club-wear -- fills the tables at this classic Hong Kong-style coffee shop. Even at this hour, the kitchen pumps out dishes from a long, amazingly varied list: escargot, Russian borscht, Spam-topped noodle soup, German-style pork knuckle, French toast, Chinese chow fun and a panoply of Italian-style pastas re-imagined for Asian palates.

By Linda Burum

April 16, 2008