Review: Blanca in Newport Beach

FROM OUR table along the water at Blanca, a new restaurant in Newport Beach, we watch as a gondolier in traditional striped jersey and broad-brimmed hat gives his gleaming black gondola a polish with a soft cloth, folding a blanket across the seat. His presence, barely visible in the dark as lights reflected in the water bob in and out of focus, is incongruous among the moored speedboats and party boats for hire. Yet here comes the romantic couple ready for their gondola ride. As they step into the boat, the gondolier hands them each a glass of wine and -- ever the professional -- takes a photo.

By S. Irene Virbila

July 23, 2008