Foreign Exchange

The unexpected from Times foreign correspondents.


Marco Ugarte / Associated Press
Villagers in charge of protecting butterflies gather for a meeting near the town of Chincua, Mexico.

South Korea goes into its annual cone of silence

November 12, 2009

FOREIGN EXCHANGE

South Korea goes into its annual cone of silence

Test proctor Chae Su-beom knows the drill. Twice on this all-important day, for a seemingly interminable half-hour at a time, he is required to stand completely still. No coughing, gum-chewing, breathing heavily or even making eye contact with his exam-taking students.

Famed French judge Bruguiere tells of a troubled Pakistan

November 4, 2009

Foreign Exchange

Famed French judge Bruguiere tells of a troubled Pakistan

The Pakistani government has lost control of rogue military and intelligence officers who aid Al Qaeda and its allies and play a double game with the West, a renowned French judge asserts in an upcoming book.

In Aceh, stranded ships a reminder of the 2004 tsunami

October 30, 2009

FOREIGN EXCHANGE

In Aceh, stranded ships a reminder of the 2004 tsunami

They are the ships that fell from the sky; two immovable objects, their very presence defying reason.

For foreign correspondents, one phobia that won't fly

October 24, 2009

FOREIGN EXCHANGE

For foreign correspondents, one phobia that won't fly

Clackety-clack. Clackety-clack. I pause as I mount the steps of the 737, frowning at the spinning engine.

Afghan show brings down the hoots

October 23, 2009

FOREIGN EXCHANGE

Afghan show brings down the hoots

What to do about an election without a winner? As far as many Afghans are concerned, the answer is simple: Laugh.

South Korea museum holds an odd collection of brooding artworks

October 19, 2009

FOREIGN EXCHANGE

South Korea museum holds an odd collection of brooding artworks

For years, Kim Cho-gang kept her oddball art collection out of sight, hidden away in a basement.

South Korea cemetery focus of dispute

8:45 PM PDT, October 11, 2009

FOREIGN EXCHANGE

South Korea cemetery focus of dispute

For years, on the anniversary of his wife's death in 2000, Peter Underwood sought the solace of the tiny hillside cemetery not far from this city's bustling downtown.

Hope survived one Iraq bombing, but not the second

October 8, 2009

FOREIGN EXCHANGE

Hope survived one Iraq bombing, but not the second

After I survived my first bombing, I said to myself, I won't see worse than this. Then I survived my second bombing and it changed everything.

Lebanon tourism is back from a holiday

September 26, 2009

FOREIGN EXCHANGE

Lebanon tourism is back from a holiday

It was a good summer for Georges Boustany. His popular upscale beach club, Lazy B, thrived as record numbers of visitors flocked to Lebanon's famed sandy coast for what officials are calling the country's most successful tourist season ever.

In Beijing, a crouching retiree and hidden health benefits

September 18, 2009

FOREIGN EXCHANGE

In Beijing, a crouching retiree and hidden health benefits

It's late morning at Beijing's popular Beihai Park, and 72-year-old Han Shusuo is channeling the chimpanzee. Bent double with his gloved hands pressed against the pavement, Han gently lopes forward with a look of serene concentration, his rear end pointed skyward.

Mexican city warily awaits Independence Day celebrations

September 15, 2009

FOREIGN EXCHANGE

Mexican city warily awaits Independence Day celebrations

Mexicans begin celebrating their most cherished national holiday today, Independence Day, but indelible memories of unprecedented violence a year ago will make for a somber affair in some parts of the country.

S. Korean wages a visual campaign against dog eating

September 4, 2009

FOREIGN EXCHANGE

S. Korean wages a visual campaign against dog eating

As Lee Won-bok arranged his posters one Saturday at a busy outdoor pedestrian mall, passersby peeked over his shoulder in dismay and horror.

Russia president takes out after alcohol

September 3, 2009

FOREIGN EXCHANGE

Russia president takes out after alcohol

You can take a lot from Russia; it has lost plenty already: cash, empire, territory, clout. Russia is tough and wintry; Russia survives undaunted.

Charisma Man: An American geek is reborn in Japan

September 1, 2009

FOREIGN EXCHANGE

Charisma Man: An American geek is reborn in Japan

From his window seat in the Roppongi bar district, Neil Garscadden eyes an exotic street parade: the reggae-styled hipsters, the Nigerian nightclub hawkers, the soft-stepping geishas, the secretaries in miniskirts and impossibly heavy eye shadow.

In Moscow, failure to pay a traffic bribe has its price

August 28, 2009

FOREIGN EXCHANGE

In Moscow, failure to pay a traffic bribe has its price

The baton comes down. It always starts like that. The traffic cop looms in the hard summer sunlight, in the semblance of a breakdown lane that runs in the middle of screaming traffic.

Sierra Leone beach resort is village's ticket to better life

August 25, 2009

FOREIGN EXCHANGE

Sierra Leone beach resort is village's ticket to better life

The dawn rose over lushly carpeted mountains and broke gently along the miles of powdery white beach in the village improbably named River No. 2. It was Sunday and, for most of Sierra Leone, a day of rest.

Downward spiral of Israel's Dudu Topaz ends in apparent suicide

August 21, 2009

Foreign Exchange

Downward spiral of Israel's Dudu Topaz ends in apparent suicide

The day before his final act, the entertainer once known as Israel's "ratings king" was escorted from his cell to a hastily arranged meeting with his lawyer.

June 3, 2009

FOREIGN EXCHANGE

Former popular Israeli TV host jailed over assaults

They called Dudu Topaz "the ratings king" of Israel. Handsome and charismatic, folksy and zany, he drew audiences to gimmicky variety shows, game shows, talk shows, children's shows and satires that made him one of the country's most popular and provocative television hosts for nearly three decades.

June 1, 2009

FOREIGN EXCHANGE

Gutsy Pakistan protesters march against the Taliban

The first thing you notice about the protest is the protesters. They're all men.

A trip to Mexico's Museum of Drugs

May 11, 2009

FOREIGN EXCHANGE

A trip to Mexico's Museum of Drugs

Army Capt. Claudio Montane wants one thing clear from the start: This place is not not a narco-museum. The point is not to glorify drug traffickers.

Iranian scholar has advice for U.S. on Afghanistan

April 17, 2009

FOREIGN EXCHANGE

Iranian scholar has advice for U.S. on Afghanistan

Iranian scholar Changiz Pahlavan has spent more than 30 years immersed in the minutiae of Afghanistan, as a researcher for UNESCO during the 1970s, a confidant of the country's various warlords during the 1980s and '90s, and an expert on the huge Afghan refugee population in Iran.

April 16, 2009

FOREIGN EXCHANGE

North Korea's mysterious power broker

He is an enigma from the world's most secretive state, a behind-the-scenes political operative known mostly as a trusted brother-in-law to North Korean strongman Kim Jong Il.

Israel turns to robotics to boost students' interest in high-tech industry

April 15, 2009

FOREIGN EXCHANGE

Israel turns to robotics to boost students' interest in high-tech industry

It looked like high school basketball with high-tech bumper cars.

April 14, 2009

FOREIGN EXCHANGE

Somalia: A trip fraught with risk to a nation in need

Sometimes the most a U.S. congressman can hope for is a little drive-by diplomacy.

Tokyo Disneyland still a happy place despite the economy

April 13, 2009

FOREIGN EXCHANGE

Tokyo Disneyland still a happy place despite the economy

As the Japanese economy continues its roller-coaster ride, many cash-strapped citizens have decided it's a small world, after all.

American tourists at home in Cuba

April 12, 2009

FOREIGN EXCHANGE

American tourists at home in Cuba

The St. Patrick’s Day parade was a little late, but the Cuban bagpipers and the blond transvestite in green satin made up for it in spirit as they sashayed down O'Reilly Street to observe Cuba's historic connections to Ireland. (Apparently, even Che Guevara was part Irish.)

South Korea's squeeze on financial news

April 11, 2009

FOREIGN EXCHANGE

South Korea's squeeze on financial news

In South Korea, image and perception are paramount -- especially when it comes to how the conservative Lee Myung-bak administration is dealing with the global financial crisis.

South Korea stands behind U.S. free-trade pact

April 10, 2009

FOREIGN EXCHANGE

South Korea stands behind U.S. free-trade pact

South Korea is close to finalizing what officials here call a hard-won free-trade agreement with the European Union that would do away with most tariffs on trade between the two entities.

Israel celebrates blessing of the sun

April 9, 2009

FOREIGN EXCHANGE

Israel celebrates blessing of the sun

Our attire was about as casual as it can get for a religious celebration.

April 8, 2009

FOREIGN EXCHANGE

Judge named to lead Gaza inquiry is known for fairness

Reporting from Johannesburg, South Africa, and Jerusalem -- Richard Goldstone, a quiet, self-effacing jurist from South Africa, agonized for days over the job offer: Unravel the accusations and counter-accusations of war crimes related to Israel's winter assault on the Gaza Strip.

If Obama gambit works, Tehran's hard-liners would suffer, Iranian says

April 7, 2009

FOREIGN EXCHANGE

If Obama gambit works, Tehran's hard-liners would suffer, Iranian says

The U.S. government is pursuing a high-stakes gambit to improve relations with Iran, with President Obama delivering a conciliatory speech last month and later dispatching deputies to two international conferences in an attempt to find common ground with Iranians in attendance.

Paris' Quai Branly Museum celebrates 'Jazz Century'

April 6, 2009

FOREIGN EXCHANGE

Paris' Quai Branly Museum celebrates 'Jazz Century'

Bump Picasso.

Shoemakers know Egypt's down at heel

April 5, 2009

FOREIGN EXCHANGE

Shoemakers know Egypt's down at heel

Two shoemakers, one with white hair, the other much younger, hammer and sew beneath the torn awning of their shop in a downtown bazaar.

South Korean starlet's suicide is a real-life drama

April 3, 2009

FOREIGN EXCHANGE

South Korean starlet's suicide is a real-life drama

In this nation obsessed with its soap operas, a real-life spectacle involving sex, a starlet's suicide and the country's most powerful entertainment executives has South Koreans riveted.

April 2, 2009

FOREIGN EXCHANGE

Colombian activist waits in prison limbo

Community organizer Carmelo Agamez has spent five months in jail and still has not seen the evidence against him, been told who his accuser is or been notified of a trial date. Welcome to justice, Colombia style.

Blowfish's bad rap is killing him

April 1, 2009

FOREIGN EXCHANGE

Blowfish's bad rap is killing him

Veteran chef Yutaka Sasaki has a plan to remove the fear of eating one of the most poisonous fish on the planet: He wants to feed it to the emperor.

March 31, 2009

FOREIGN EXCHANGE

A look inside Iraq's Interior Ministry

Say the words "interior ministry" in almost any Middle Eastern country and you're certain to evoke fear and resentment.

In Pakistan, fighting terrorists the five-star way

March 27, 2009

FOREIGN EXCHANGE

In Pakistan, fighting terrorists the five-star way

I'm living on the edge and doing my bit to make sure the terrorists don't win -- from the cloud-like, pillow-swamped bed of a luxury hotel.

March 25, 2009

FOREIGN EXCHANGE

'The Porn Identity': Vienna exhibit sheds the shadows

You look around nervously as you approach the ticket counter. What would people think if they saw you going into a place like this? Even the woman at the counter seems to be looking at you funny. What kind of guy would come here in broad daylight?

Mexico's butterfly reserve alights in the soul

March 23, 2009

FOREIGN EXCHANGE

Mexico's butterfly reserve alights in the soul

They first catch the eye as tiny, ghost-like flashes. It takes a moment to fix the flitting shapes.

Put Clair Voyant down as a reference

March 11, 2009

FOREIGN EXCHANGE

Put Clair Voyant down as a reference

Poised to enter a cutthroat job market, college art student Kim Tae-eun showed up for a crucial interview the other day nervous and dressed to the nines.

March 9, 2009

FOREIGN EXCHANGE

Sudan's president hits the road with defiance

Call it the "Defiance Tour '09," Sudanese-style.

March 4, 2009

FOREIGN EXCHANGE

Mexico's communications chief trips over his words

A government secretary of communications ought to know a thing or two about, well, communications.

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