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Newsletter: In the kitchen: Old-school comfort food

Rabbit daube.
(Christina House / For The Times)
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What is all this wet stuff falling from the sky? For Southern Californians unfamiliar with anything other than sunny skies and an epic, years-long drought, the recent storms might seem a bit… odd. But we’re grateful. In addition to potentially easing drought conditions in the state, the weather changes actually make the season feel a bit more like winter. Which gives us an excuse to break out the winter clothes and cook some cold-weather comfort food.

For cookbook author and food writer Martha Rose Shulman, comfort food doesn’t get much better than daube. The classic Provençal wine and meat stew takes some time to prepare, but the flavors are worth it.

Noelle Carter

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OLD-SCHOOL COMFORT FOOD

Earthy and robust, daube is the perfect cold-weather comfort food. While not as refined as its northern cousin boeuf bourguignon, the wine and meat stew is layered with flavors of garlic, onion and carrot, and a hint of orange. Rustic as the stew may be, this is one dish that is best prepared over a few days: one for marinating, one for cooking and one for resting and enjoying. Shulman shares tips along with recipes for beef and rabbit daube.

Beef daube
Beef daube
(Christina House / For The Times )

MEET YOUR NEW FAVORITE MANDARIN ORANGE

There’s a new mandarin orange in town: the USDA 88-2, also known as the “Super Nova.” The fruit is, according to author David Karp, “known for its gorgeous dark orange color, its convenient seedlessness, its rich balance of sweetness and acidity — and its superb aromatics.” And while the orange has been around for almost 50 years, it’s finally available commercially.

USDA 88-2 mandarins at the Lindcove Research and Extension Center in Exeter, Calif.
USDA 88-2 mandarins at the Lindcove Research and Extension Center in Exeter, Calif.
(David Karp / For the Times )
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VIDEO: HOW TO SEGMENT MANDARINS AND OTHER CITRUS

TRY THIS OATMEAL PANCAKE RECIPE FOR BREAKFAST OR DINNER

For some of us, a meal just doesn’t get any better than a stack of pancakes, any time of day. These oatmeal pancakes don’t disappoint, the fluffy cakes flavored with a hint of cinnamon, a light buttermilk tang, and rolled oats for extra texture. For even more personality, consider folding in cooked wild rice or dried fruit.

Oatmeal pancakes
Oatmeal pancakes
(Kirk McKoy / Los Angeles Times )

Love cooking as much as I do? Follow me @noellecarter

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