Dining Review: New Montrose restaurant Benitoite does honor to California cuisine

Two questions inevitably arise when talking about Benitoite, the finally opened restaurant at the gateway to Montrose: “How do you say Benitoite?” and “What kind of food do they serve?”

I confirmed the pronunciation with our server the night we went. “Benny-twoyt,” she said. Originally found near the headwaters of the San Benito River in Northern California, benitoite is sometimes called “blue diamond” and is the official state gem of California. This would explain the pretty blue walls at the cafe called Benitoite.

What kind of food do they serve? California cuisine, of course. A vague term I know, particularly to the denizens of California. It officially has to do with fresh, local ingredients and strong attention to presentation. But I prefer to call this food American bistro fare by way of the Middle East and Europe. Chef/owner Armen Rostomian brings a modern edge to classic items like mac and cheese with aged cheddar ($9), chopped Cobb salad ($13), and roast beef with mushroom jus and potato mash ($22).

The Middle Eastern influence is found in a number of dishes. Besides the requisite hummus and pita ($10), there’s a Mediterranean salad ($12) and an eggplant sandwich ($13) but the dish that blows them (and everything else we ate that night) out of the water is the pulled duck in pomegranate and walnut sauce ($20). I confirmed with Chef Armen’s charming mother, acting as hostess this night, that his is an authentic version of one of my favorite dishes, Persian fesenjoon. I’d never had the sublime walnut-pomegranate stew with pulled duck before. The flavors balanced beautifully. The accompanying house-cured celery and chayote pickles were wonderful as well.

Our party started with a few small plates. The bacon-wrapped dates were good and the roasted tomato soup was super fresh-tasting but generally shallow in flavor probably because tomatoes aren’t in season. The Brussels sprouts were unanimously dubbed the best we’d ever had. They core each sprout and separate all the leaves, flash fry them in fresh oil, then add roasted shallots, bacon bits and a balsamic-honey glaze ($10).

We sampled the roasted beet and arugula salad next. It was the supremely fresh burrata that stood out here. We sailed past the sandwich section of the menu and went straight for the entrees. I’ve spoken of the pulled duck already. The chicken curry featured a delectable creamy, yellow Indian curry sauce ($18). The best part of the crispy skin salmon was not the skin (which wasn’t really crispy at all) but the quinoa and couscous underneath bathed in an amazing tomato harissa sauce ($24). Sadly, the mushroom and spinach lasagna was a disappointment ($16). The noodles were hard enough to require a knife and the flavors were neither here nor there.

I appreciate their commitment to California wines and craft beers on their tightly curated beverage menu. The beers favor Fort Bragg’s North Coast brewery (most are $6) and, conveniently, all but two of the 12 wines come by the glass ($7 to $13) as well as by bottle.

The final question to be asked of Benitoite is “Is it a nice place to have dinner?” Yes is the answer. The space is very handsome. I understand Mr. Rostomian took his time opening the restaurant because he wanted to get all the details just right. As far as the interior goes, he did. The wood paneled ceiling, the lighting, the floors, the windows, the outdoor tables, even the acoustics are all reminiscent of an elegant Parisian corner cafe. But it’s the warm and gracious chef, hosts and servers who come around often to speak with diners that makes Benitoite an especially lovely spot to bring a special someone.

--

What: Benitoite

Where: 2200 Honolulu Ave., Montrose

When: Tuesday to Sunday, 5 p.m. to 10 p.m.

Prices: Small plates, salads, sandwiches, entrees $6 to $24

Contact: (818) 330-9967

--

LISA DUPUY has written about local food and entertainment since 2008.