Dining Review: Like dining among palms and sand

My son was craving Cuban food. He loves fried plantains and black beans from Porto’s. Who doesn’t? But I had another idea.

I’d driven by La Bamba on Glenoaks in northwestern Burbank dozens of times, looking longingly at the people gathered on the party-lit patio, thinking how relaxed and well-fed they looked. I seemed to recall it saying “Cuban Food” on the sign so that’s where we headed.

It was a warm, humid night, not unlike a summer night in Havana. We were greeted at the threshold (I can’t say “door” because the whole restaurant is outside) by a gentleman with a warm smile who took us to our metal mesh outdoor table. The round patio felt like a palm frond-covered palapa but in reality it’s just a wood roof. The Cuban music, whirring electric fans and baseball on the TV make you feel like you’re in a foreign country, but in reality it’s just Burbank. The whole thing is fun and as casual as a Caribbean beach.

When Mexican tortilla chips and salsa arrived I started to question the Cuban-ness of La Bamba. Then I scanned the menu and realized this place serves food from all around the Caribbean rim. There’s Jamaican chicken, Panama shrimp, Mexican nachos, and a St. Thomas burrito, to name a few. They are even so bold as to offer fare from further afield like the Santa Fe salad and Tex-Mex fajitas.

We asked what was Cuban and were encouraged to get the La Bamba Special, a large plate of lechon asado pork, yellow rice, black beans and pico de gallo ($9.95). It was delicious. My son couldn’t get over the beans. They’re sweet but not sugary sweet. More like fruit juice and cinnamon sweet. The shredded pork had been marinated in a citrus-garlic mix, then slowly cooked over fire for a juicy, tender meat. The rice was fluffy and buttery. Naturally, we ordered a side of the addictive platanos fritos ($5.95), fried ripe plantains as opposed to the fried green plantains, called tostones. Corn tortillas and spicy green sauce brought the sweetness of the beans and platanos down to earth. Though also on the sweet side, my red sangria washed everything down quite nicely. All the flavors came together, conjuring the taste and attitude of the islands.

Next we tried the tilapia al ajillo (in lemon-garlic sauce) which also came with beans and rice ($11.95). Not sure which country this hails from — maybe Colombia or Belize. The fish was moist, flavorful and exceedingly hot, temperature-wise. In fact, most things came out of the kitchen hot as pistols. Finally we got the best-selling bistec a la Venezolana ($10.95) from Venezuela. Like the other proteins, the beef was not heavily spiced. It was tender and tasty with lots of onions. It doesn’t blow your mind on the first bite but it never gets boring either.

I ran into an old friend at La Bamba. Being of Puerto Rican descent, she is always on the lookout for foods from her homeland. She was there getting a mamey milkshake which, of course, I had to try. Mamey sapote is a fruit like no other. On the outside the texture is between sandpaper and peach fuzz. Cut a ripe mamey in half and a vibrant salmon-colored flesh is revealed with a taste similar to sweet potato or pumpkin with a hint of almond. Cubans living in Miami have been sipping on these shakes on hot summer nights for years. La Bamba makes mamey shakes as well as guanabana, papaya and others for $3.95.

For a relaxed lunch or dinner with flavors you don’t get everyday, try La Bamba Island Cuisine.

Who: La Bamba Island Cuisine

Where: 2600 N. Glenoaks Blvd., Burbank

When: Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Friday through Sunday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.

Prices: Caribbean specialties, $6.95 to $14.95; fruit shakes, $3.95

Contact: (818) 846-3358; www.labambarestaurant.us
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LISA DUPUY welcomes comments and suggestions at LDupuy@aol.com.