Tradition and flair served up at Epic Taco Shop in Montrose
With its walls covered with punk-rock posters and reggae music blaring, Epic Taco Shop is like a typical spot in hip Echo Park or Silver Lake, but it’s actually been a part of Montrose since opening this month.
Owner Michael Ruiz, a local resident for more than a decade, said he wanted to try a different approach from the small-town vibe for which the community is known.
“I personally wanted some other stuff, some younger energy, something maybe not as classic,” he said.
There are tables and chairs, but grub can be ordered to go. Ruiz said he wanted the take-out element to set him apart from other Mexican eateries in the area, which are traditional sit-down restaurants.
It also has a much smaller menu; there are tacos and only tacos.
“Right now, the focus is just on the few items that we have, so we can really stand behind everything,” Ruiz said.
He describes his taco lineup as anything but traditional, with a blend of styles hailing from different parts of Southern California.
Popular choices, so far, include the pork belly carnitas and salmon poke taco. More traditional fare such as carne asada is also available, and everything can be ordered off a chalkboard hanging on a wall.
Ruiz’s personal favorite: the shredded beef and pickle taco.
“Most people are shocked by the pickle, but it gives a little extra crunch and a nice little bit of acidity,” he said.
Everything — including the traditional salsa roja and salsa verde as well as a specially-made “TNT” sauce for heat seekers — is prepped on-site by a four-person staff.
Melinda Clarke, executive director of the Montrose Chamber of Commerce, said the shopping park has been in need of a place for scoring “street tacos,” ones that have a no-holds-barred approach with creative ingredients.
“Everybody has been waiting for tacos like [Ruiz] has. We’re absolutely excited to have him in town,” she said.
Ruiz is a classically trained chef who grew up in the restaurant business. His family ran the Mexican restaurant El Faro in Whittier for 35 years.
When not at Epic Taco Shop, he’s an executive chef at Preux and Proper in downtown Los Angeles.
In addition to the posters on the walls, youngsters can contribute to the decorations by using in-store crayons to color on a picture of a “Day of the Dead” skull that can be hung on a wall.
For now, Epic Taco Shop’s hours are from noon to 8 p.m., Wednesday through Sunday.
Ruiz said he views his business as a concept that’s trying to modernize Montrose.
“I just want to give some other options,” he said. “[Epic Taco Shop] is mostly takeout, so the idea was to have more [take-out options] in the neighborhood like us.”
Epic Taco Shop is located at 3527 N. Verdugo Road.
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Arin Mikailian, arin.mikailian@latimes.com
Twitter: @ArinMikailian
