Sushi for less at BiMi

The restaurant has a cool, contemporary decor and soft lighting, making it a relaxing spot for sushi and izakaya dishes.  (Ringo H.W. Chiu / For the Los Angeles Times)

Chefs Yuji Ikoma, left, and Sabu Hoshino work at the sushi bar. Hoshino has worked at Matsuhisa but his dishes at BiMi reflect a more earthy, direct approach.  (Ringo H.W. Chiu / For the Los Angeles Times)

Sabu Hoshino, handing over a freshly prepared item, is not such a purist that he’ll refuse to make a “dynamite crab roll” or other standards, but the menu specials are the real standouts.  (Ringo H.W. Chiu / For the Los Angeles Times)

White fish carpaccio is bathed in hot olive oil.  (Ringo H.W. Chiu / For the Los Angeles Times)

The housemade tofu is served warm in a small, lidded bowl.  (Ringo H.W. Chiu / For the Los Angeles Times)

The French fries are cooked in an extremely light batter and come wrapped in a white lace doily set in a tall glass. The three dipping sauces include ketchup doctored with chile, a ranch-style dressing and sweetish housemade mustard mayonnaise.  (Ringo H.W. Chiu / For the Los Angeles Times)

A buoyant mood fills the restaurant, decorated with glass tiles and chocolate-colored vinyl banquettes and chairs.  (Ringo H.W. Chiu / For the Los Angeles Times)