Gjelina Rating: ** 1/2 Location: 1429 Abbot Kinney Blvd. (at Milwood Avenue), Venice, (310) 450-1429. Ambience: Rustic Mediterranean restaurant with communal tables at the bar, a loft-like dining room and airy patio out back. The crowd is chic boho, the vibe lively and the food earthy and delicious. Service: Friendly and helpful. Price: Cured meats and cheeses, $10 to $13; vegetables, $8; salads, $10; pizzas, $13 to $15; plates, $9 to $27. Best dishes: Nectarines with speck and burrata, wild mushroom and Taleggio pizza, wood-oven-roasted sunchokes or artichokes, duck leg confit, Monterey Bay squid with chimichurri, skirt steak, pine nut tart, butterscotch pot de crème. Wine list: One page, but with some affordable and interesting choices. Corkage fee, $20. Best table: One on the garden patio where it's quieter. Special features: Two communal tables for drop-ins. Details: Open for dinner nightly from 5:30 p.m. to midnight Sundays through Thursdays (kitchen closes at 10:30 p.m.), until 1 a.m. Fridays and Saturdays (kitchen closes at 11 p.m.). Brunch is 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays. Beer and wine. Lot parking behind restaurant, also street parking. To see a photo gallery, go to latimes.com/food. Rating is based on food, service and ambience, with price taken into account in relation to quality. ****: Outstanding on every level. ***: Excellent. **: Very good. *: Good. No star: Poor to satisfactory.
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