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Jonathan Gold
Szechuan Impression skewers all expectations
Szechuan Impression skewers all expectations

Bobo chicken, at least as interpreted at Szechuan Impression, is a party in a pot, a ceramic pot that strongly resembles a novelty St. Patrick's Day hat, half-filled with chile-laced broth and with long bamboo skewers sticking up from the vessel in almost comic profusion, like spines from a porcupine or needles from the flank of an acupuncture patient. (I think they look like the bristling spears in Uccello's paintings of the Battle of San Romano, but I probably took too many art history courses when I was in college.) At the pointy end of the skewers, you might find almost anything: a scrap of black fungus, sliced lotus root, a heart or gizzard, a crunchy curl of goose intestine...

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