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Peter Max
Laughs and luaus on Maui's west coast
Laughs and luaus on Maui's west coast

The sunsets are good, as you might expect on the west coast of Maui. But is Lahaina really where you go to hear echoes of the old whaling days and the early missionaries? Or is it a cheesy tourist town? The answer is yes to both. On an island full of natural wonders, most of downtown Lahaina (population: about 9,100) is neither natural nor wonderful. But Front Street, its main drag, has an undeniable vitality. Running right along the waterfront, it seethes with T-shirt shops, boutiques, snack shops and a batch of galleries sporting the psychedelia of Peter Max, the saturated photographic panoramas of Peter Lik and the whales of Wyland. "Fifteen, 16 … 17,000 crabs are on...

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