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Letter to readers about the new California section

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Rudolf Steiner
Wild yeast, natural wine
Wild yeast, natural wine

"Natural wine" is the trendiest term to be punted about by people seeking something nongeneric. It's also the vaguest, and that's a mixed blessing. In San Francisco, a loose coalition of wine bars and shop owners is trying to define natural wine based not on grapes but on yeast. This leads to a wide range of natural wines from around the world, often with unusual, nonfruit flavors. The trend isn't yet as strong in Southern California, but the ground is fertile -- the move toward more, well, natural winemaking is popular here too. "Lots of people come in and ask for organically farmed wines, or wines with no sulfites," says Thomas Rekasis, food and...

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