Letter to readers about the new California section


Clara Bow
Brandstatter brought the party to old Hollywood
Brandstatter brought the party to old Hollywood

Before Chasen's and the Brown Derby, way before Sam Nazarian or even Wolfgang Puck, the first restaurant guy who catered to Hollywood was Adolph "Eddie" Brandstatter. He had the "Brandstatter touch": one part dapper European suavity — he brought a sheen of elegance to the rough-edged Hollywood of the 1920s — and one part straight-up charisma. Wherever Eddie was, that was the party. Brandstatter also helped establish the sort of menu that dominated upscale restaurants around here up to the 1960s: quasi-French Continental cuisine along with some real French dishes (Brandstatter, born in France, always offered a cheese course), a miscellany of local...