Ernst Lubitsch

Tidings of comfort and latkes

Tidings of comfort and latkes

What am I cooking for Christmas dinner? Well a goose, of course, a fine, fat one, cooked in the Barbara Kafka way that involves high heat and an hour of resting in the cooling oven; and my mom's sweet-and-sour red cabbage; and blanched Brussels sprouts finished in hot fat. There will be no foie gras this year for the obvious reason, so there may be another pâté, something absurdly luxurious made from pheasant and juniper berries or some such.

But mostly there will be potato pancakes, lots of them: fragrant, brown and served with sautéed apples and the best sour cream. I used to think that I made potato pancakes because I was making the dinner Frank Morgan's...