Ambience: What was already one of the most handsome restaurants in South Florida now has a lower wooden ceiling built to improve acoustics. It worked. And it somehow brings into closer focus the mural by artist Susy Pilgim Waters that lines the walls of the 80-seat main dining room. With so much wood and warm orange colors, a kind of butterscotch glow is cast over diners. There are also separate dining rooms for private parties and other functions.
Entree excellence: A generous serving of classic mussels marinières ($26) — these with a hint of tomato — are pretty much perfect, from the wonderfully seasoned white wine cooking broth to the crisp pommes frites (french fries) that you'll share with your tablemates. Roasted Chilean sea bass ($35) has the golden char of the oven and just enough champagne beurre blanc to compliment the perfectly cooked fish. It's served with asparagus, carrots and red beets. Dover sole meunière ($44), another classic, is deboned table side. It's as tender and buttery as the accompanying lemon butter sauce and served with a potato puree. Crispy duck ($31) hints of Asia and is tender bite after bite. Lamb chops ($34), three per order, are thick and meaty and served with ratatouille and couscous and subtle rosemary demi glace. They were just a bit overcooked one night.
Sweet!: I wish there was more here beyond chocolate molten cake ($8) and bread pudding ($6). Crème brulee ($7) was tasty, while a lemon tart ($7) with raspberry coulis lacked any depth of flavor.
Service: Excellent technicians, but not great at making recommendations.
Liquid assets: Some great low-cost wine selections.
Contact dining correspondent John Tanasychuk at email@example.com or 954-356-4632. Read his blog at SunSentinel.com/sup and follow him Twitter.com @FloridaEats.