* Always cook mushrooms before adding them to a composed dish; if you add them raw, they will turn leathery and tough.


* When making mashed potatoes, boil the potatoes just long enough that they are almost cooked. If you overcook them, the potatoes will absorb too much water and crumble. Furthermore, stir in the milk only after you have beaten in all the butter.

* It is much easier to pluck a chicken that is freshly killed and has not been refrigerated.

Russ Parsons

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Fattened hen a l'ivoire (poularde a l'ivoire)

Total time: 2 hours, 25 minutes

Servings: 4 to 6

Note: Adapted from "La Bonne Cuisine de Madame E. Saint-Ange"

1 (4- to 4 1/2 -pound) chicken, including giblets

1 lemon, cut in half

4 slices bacon, plus 1/4 cup diced bacon, divided

6 tablespoons butter, divided

2 1/2 carrots, thinly sliced

1 small onion, quartered

1 stalk celery, chopped

8 parsley sprigs

6 1/2 cups lukewarm veal or chicken stock

1 1/4 cups white wine

1/2 pound mushrooms, stems removed and reserved