The Grace in Rosebank, 54 Bath Ave., Rosebank, Johannesburg; 280-7200, fax 280-7474 http://www.grace.co.za . This elegant hotel is regularly featured on world's-best lists. Doubles start at $310.

WHERE TO EAT:

Moyo, 5 Melrose Square, Melrose Arch; 684-1477, http://www.moyoafrica.com . Moyo has a deliciously extravagant menu that covers the continent, from Morocco to Cape Town. Entrees $8-$11.

Sides, 10 Bompas Road, Dunkeld West, Gauteng; 325-2442. This restaurant at Ten Bompas hotel has a small but good menu and splendid ambience. Entrees $7-$10.

Café Flo, 116 Greenway, Greenside; 646-6817. This ever-popular no-frills restaurant has items from salads to local fusion cuisine. Entrees $6-$10.

DETAILS:

Downtown Johannesburg is still not the safest area to travel in without a guide, but it is being cleaned up and is fascinating, full of old spice shops and the gem-shaped Diamond Building erected by the Anglo-American Corp.

The Newtown Cultural Precinct, west of downtown, is where you'll find the Market Theatre Complex (check schedules for plays), the eclectic MuseuMAfricA and the Bus Factory, home of the Ubuntu Village, a display of the country's best crafts.

TO LEARN MORE:

South African Tourism, 500 Fifth Ave., Suite 2040, New York, NY 10110; (212) 730-2929, fax (212) 764-1980, http://www.southafrica.net .

— Ted Botha