Pizzeria Mozza

On an Echo Park corner, Jonathan Gold finds the neighborhood pizzeria reinvented

On an Echo Park corner, Jonathan Gold finds the neighborhood pizzeria reinvented

In one form or another, Pizza Buona has been holding down the corner of Sunset Boulevard and Alvarado Street since the early 1960s, a holdover from when the neighborhood still had a substantial Italian presence. There used to be a deli next door where you could buy provolone or pick up sandwiches to bring to a Dodgers game. If you walked through the intersection late at night, your nose tracked your progress through the garlicky aroma from the pizzeria, washes of grilled meat from the old carwash taqueria, and the smell of simmering green chiles from the original Burrito King.

Now the corner is occupied by Cosa Buona, a new restaurant from Zach Pollack, whom you may know from his...

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