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Pizzeria Mozza

At Leona, the roast dumpling squash makes a statement

At Leona, the roast dumpling squash makes a statement

It is clear we have entered the age of the roasted vegetable, a glorious epoch when a stalwart carrot or celery root, warmed in dying embers, can take the place on a plate formerly ceded to a game hen or a slab of richly marbled beef. If you have tasted Nancy Silverton's wood-blasted eggplant at Pizzeria Mozza or Josiah Citrin's ash-cooked cabbage at Charcoal, yearned to visit Zahav in Philadelphia or try Alain Ducasse's new vegetable menu in Paris, or cooked more than a couple of recipes from an Ottolenghi book, you know exactly what I mean.

Still, while roasted vegetables have become almost as easy to find in Los Angeles as avocado toast, I'm not sure I have ever come across a...

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