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Red Medicine

Counter: The Filipino food movement continues

Los Angeles tends to go through phases when it comes to what we eat. There’s the ongoing Things in a Bowl trend. Vegetables have emerged as the star of most restaurant dishes. And bowls of labneh sprinkled with za’atar don’t seem to be going anywhere soon (let’s cross our fingers that they never do). And right now, we find ourselves in the midst of a Filipino food movement, with Rice Bar’s Charles Olalia and Lasa’s Chad Valencia propelling it forward.

This week, Jonathan Gold heads to Irenia in Santa Ana, where he finds the movement continuing with plate after plate of crunchy fried anchovies, known as dilis. We also have a story on 101 Cider House, a Westlake...