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Roussanne, a Rhône Valley white wine that's both maddening and majestic

Roussanne, a Rhône Valley white wine that's both maddening and majestic

Winemaker Bob Lindquist of Qupé, one of California’s preeminent Rhône Rangers, came to the grape variety Roussanne late, perhaps because it is regarded as the most maddening of the Rhône Valley’s whites. He was already making Viognier and a quietly spectacular Marsanne, arguably the country’s best, a variety with at least some of Roussanne’s memorable features. But Roussanne eventually lured him in. “I love Marsanne,” says Lindquist, “but Roussanne just has more complexity, more depth, more richness, more perfume.” To him, there was no question which was the better grape.

So a...

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