| Jul 28, 2011
Say what? A Sauvignon Blanc from Burgundy? Under $15?
I was skeptical. But when I tasted the 2009 Saint-Bris from Domaine Bersan, I understood why Saint-Bris is the only appellation in Burgundy where the required grape is Sauvignon Blanc. Crisp and...
| Jul 18, 2011
John Mosca, proprietor of a two-room roadhouse near New Orleans famed for its Italian-style garlicky shrimp, oysters, chicken and marinated crab dishes, has died. He was 86.
Mosca died Wednesday at his home in suburban Harahan, said his daughter, Lisa...
| Mar 16, 2011
A series of grim developments hit a shaken Japan on Wednesday, including reports that high-level radiation may have leaked from a second damaged nuclear reactor and emergency workers being forced to temporarily abandon the crippled complex.
| Aug 11, 2011
Beneath an old diving helmet straight out of Jules Verne, a couple seated at a corner of the raw bar feed each other oysters, clams, bites of lobster. They eat slowly, luxuriously, between sips of wine. He whispers in her ear. She laughs and pops a shrimp...
| Oct 9, 2011
Cancale and Locmariaquer are dots on the Atlantic coast of France. Also places that produce my favorite food: Brittany oysters. Served raw on the half shell, with no more sauce than a squeeze of lemon, they are generally smaller than other varieties but...
| Nov 10, 2011
The minute I tasted this terrific Pouilly Fumé from Régis Minet, I wanted oysters. Not just a half dozen but at least a couple dozen, chilled, naked and preferably Kumomotos. Minet's old-vine Sauvignon Blanc picks up a stony minerality and bracing acidity...
| Oct 9, 2011
--Oysters are hermaphroditic, meaning they are both male and female, alternately assuming the egg- and sperm-producing functions of each sex.
--The rule about eating oysters only in months spelled with Rs is an old wives' tale, possibly springing from...
| Jan 1, 2012
Return to David L. Ulin's review of this essay.
I shall attempt, in this piece, an appraisal of the civilization of Southern California, but it occurs to me that before I begin I had better give you some idea what the place looks like. If you...
| Jan 5, 2012
The best meals of the year aren't necessarily about foie gras and truffles, or indulgent tasting menus, or even the technically best cooking of 2011. They're those dinners that surprised and delighted, that wove food and wine and friendship together in...
| May 19, 2011
At the Lazy Ox Canteen on the edge of Little Tokyo, the happy clamor of downtown denizens tucking into chef Josef Centeno's Ox burgers, crispy pig's ears and brick-roasted mussels leaks out the door into the street. But Lazy Ox is no longer the only...
| Jan 19, 2012
Here's an exceptional white wine made by genius Port producer Dirk Niepoort — and it's priced well under $20. Instead of a blend, Niepoort makes this entirely with the native Loureiro grape fermented and aged in stainless steel. And he gives it...