| Dec 22, 2012
The first responsibility of any great restaurant is to keep you in the bubble, the soft-serve cocoon of illusion where you forget the world exists for anything but your pleasure. And the newly redesigned Spago, from the moment you toss your keys to the...
| Jan 26, 2013
What you think about Cortez is going to depend in large part on what you think about crowds, and noise, and screechy jazz, about well-meaning servers who are slightly impatient with the idea of service, and about spending most of an hour leaning up...
| Jul 21, 2012
Have you been to the new Mo-Chica? Ricardo Zarate's Peruvian restaurant seems to define the downtown thing at the moment: It's a high-style warren on 7th Street, down the block from Bottega Louie, where the scene is as important as the drinks, and the...
| Oct 13, 2012
Whether your tailgate includes a custom grill setup and team color-coordinated tents or a simple picnic on a well-worn blanket, no pre-game ritual is complete without the spread. This is one party that's as much about the food as it is about fans and...
| Mar 2, 2013
Is ceviche poised to become as popular as sushi or sashimi in L.A.? It could happen. I'm thinking Ricardo Zarate is onto something as the Peruvian chef (Mo-Chica, Picca) gets ready to open a ceviche concept called Paiche. Raw seafood marinated in lime...
| May 12, 2012
Total time: 1 hour
Note: For the stew, use a white fish such as cod or halibut.
1 1/2 pounds fish fillets
1 1/2 pounds boiling potatoes, peeled and quartered
1 quart water
1 onion, quartered
2 bay leaves
1/4 cup olive oil
| May 12, 2012
— At the village market, my friend Pepa buys a couple of small white fish, a handful of clams, a few shrimp. I ask what she's preparing. "Una sopa marinera, de pescado," she replies. A fish soup. Nothing fancy, no complications, just a simple home-...
| Jun 18, 2012
| 1:55 PM
SANTA YNEZ, Calif. — In recent months, there's been a new farm in town with the enigmatic name the Garden of ..... and an almost mystical reputation for superb quality. From lettuce to potatoes, everything that the owners, Shu and Debby Takikawa,...
| Apr 6, 2013
Here are samples from three of my favorite books.
From "Mediterranean Food" by Elizabeth David
Ratatouille aux Oeufs
1 lb. potatoes, 3/4 lb. onions, 2 cloves of garlic, 3 small marrows (zucchini), 3 tomatoes, 3 green pimentos (sweet peppers), eggs,...
| Aug 18, 2012
Summertime and the living is easy … that would be the summer prix-fixe market menu. Ease into a chair at a favorite restaurant, and let the chef determine the menu based on summer's bounty. Oh, you might have to make a couple of choices, but that's...
| Jun 22, 2012
| 12:05 PM
Andoni Luis Aduriz, the chef of Mugaritz, in the countryside outside San Sebastian, Spain, may be the closest thing to a pure artist in the restaurant world today. He encases potatoes in thin coats of ceramic so his customers can experience the...