| Dec 28, 2009
| 2:42 PM
Note: Paul Bocuse is probably the world's most famous chef; he's not somebody you associate with hearty, homey dishes. But this recipe proves that a truly great chef can bring something special to even the most rustic fare.
1 sheet caul fat or kitchen...
| Dec 29, 2009
| 11:19 AM
Note: When Gundel's, Hungary's greatest restaurant--it opened in 1910, lasted through two world wars and even survived (barely) under Communism, shuttered less than 10 years--reopened in May of 1992, it reminded the world how elegant Hungarian food...
| Jun 10, 2010
As friends and I step into Patina, the figures of the hostess, manager, bartender, server and sommelier awake from their enchantment. They move forward, murmur a greeting and lead us to a table in the elegant, modernist dining room. Sometimes it feels...
| May 6, 2010
Valentino is back.
I know, I didn't quite believe it myself. But I kept hearing that the cooking was good again — and not just from die-hard fans who have retained a deep affection for the 38-year-old restaurant despite all the recent ups and...
| Nov 4, 2010
"Well, hello," coos one of the svelte babes on either arm of an elegantly attired gentleman crossing the tongue of red carpet in front of Wolfgang's Steakhouse in Beverly Hills. A young manager in a suit is right there to greet the trio, sweeping them off...
| Sep 30, 2010
Before the Bravo network ever dreamed up "Top Chef," Tom Colicchio, the show's head judge, already had a remarkable career. He was chef and partner at New York's Gramercy Tavern in the mid-'90s, then in 2001 opened his own restaurant, Craft, a block away,...
| Dec 16, 2010
A few weeks ago I started to follow Cube Marketplace & Café's tweets, and the next Wednesday morning my Twitter feed was bombarded with @cube_la's breathless reports from the Santa Monica farmers market. Beautiful chanterelles at a beautiful price!...
| Sep 2, 2010
2008 Arnaldo Caprai Grechetto "Grecante"
Arnaldo Caprai is better known for his intense Montefalco rosso than for his whites, so this lyrical wine comes as a surprise. Made from 100% Grechetto, an indigenous grape, it is crisp and refreshing, all...
| Sep 5, 2010
By 10 o'clock on a summer night in Copenhagen the more than 3,000 lights that cover the Nimb Hotel in the Tivoli Gardens are aglow, but the sky is still a turquoise blue as the sun just begins to set. I have a view of it from the restaurant Herman...
| Oct 21, 2010
With the barrage of notices about new restaurants coming from all sides, sometimes a worthy older one slips through the cracks without a full review. When it opened 3 years ago, I did my due diligence and went to Amarone, the tiny 40-seat Italian on...
| Mar 10, 2011
Keep the fat lady waiting in the wings. It's not over yet. Fine dining, I mean, and the new Royce at the Langham Huntington is proof.
The Pasadena hotel could have chosen to turn the Dining Room where Craig Strong (and briefly, Michael Voltaggio) once...