Text is relatively rare on Nick Wooster's eponymous Web site; just shot after intriguing shot of clothing, people, attitude, culture. And that's as it should be. For Wooster has made his mark focusing on the visual.
Fashion adviser to Gilt MAN and its online men's store, Park & Bond, creative consultant to the trade fashion event Project and formerly men's fashion director at Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman, Wooster turns heads with his classic haircut, arms sleeved in tattoos, and a sartorial style that blends preppy and edgy to create a totally original point of view that has the ear and eye of the men's fashion industry.
Here, Wooster speaks out on his fashion philosophy.
My look is: Mixed up. I want tension, tension of something masculine with something not masculine, with something really refined and something really rough.
Rules to break: I never wear a black belt with a black shoe. It's always the opposite, a brown shoe with a black belt. If I'm head to toe in black or charcoal gray, I'll wear white wingtips, Duckie Brown brogues by Florsheim.
Staples: Gray flannel and camouflage. A gray flannel suit by Thom Browne or Tom Ford can be worn a billion ways. I'll wear a gray flannel jacket with a white shirt, gray flannel tie, beat-up fatigues and a dress shoe or Carpe Diem boots.
Why a gray flannel tie? Because it's cleaner; the tie disappears. It's there but you don't have to draw attention to it. Most men use a tie as a device for getting attention.
What I wear when I want people to look: A Michael Bastian camouflage jacket. I've worn it with dress pants hacked off as shorts, wingtips and no socks, and maybe a tie.
The fundamental lessons men should learn: Dress for your body type and not your age. Everyone looks better in clothes that skim the body. Items that fit properly make you look better than wearing something oversize. I tailor T-shirts just like I do a jacket.
The shirts on my back: Mostly I wear solid blue, white and pink Oxford cloth shirts. They're a blank canvas you can ascribe anything to. I can be preppy and traditional, or I can roll up the sleeves and show the tattoos.
My essential accessory: A great belt. Whenever I take people shopping, I tell them they should buy a chocolate brown alligator belt from Ralph Lauren or Brooks Brothers with a silver buckle.
My hair routine: I just slap some product on it, either American Crew Forming Cream green label or Kiehl's Creme with Silk Groom. I use Clubman mustache wax for my mustache.
I covet: A steel Rolex Submariner watch.
People always ask me about: My hair, my tattoos, how I have developed my style and became whatever I became. The short answer is: I have no clue. I don't want to be normal, never have been normal.
Signature style: Nick Wooster
The fashion icon on his look, rules to break and his essential accessory
Nick Wooster's style picks (March 20, 2012)