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Thakoon Panichgul
L.A.'s revolution in dining
L.A.'s revolution in dining

I could practically hear the gentleman reader spluttering as he typed out his e-mail to me, complaining that a restaurant I'd recommended wasn't up to his idea of fine dining. No captain, he lamented. Rock music pounding! And the sommelier looked too young to have even been to college! I wanted to write back, à la Dylan, "Something is happening here. But you don't know what it is. Do you, Mister Jones?" He's not alone. I get letters, e-mails and calls from readers who've lost their bearings in the new world of restaurants. Where can I find a buffet brunch? A Monte Cristo sandwich? (Answer: Disneyland.) A quiet, romantic restaurant for my...

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