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Selecting the best chicken
Selecting the best chicken

A chicken is a chicken is a chicken, right? That's a question we've been pondering lately at the Food section. Not so terribly long ago, it seemed you could count on finding the same two or three standard brands of chicken at almost every grocery store. Now, seemingly overnight, there are more than a dozen from which to choose -- producers and labels galore -- all vying for attention. It's enough to make a simple chicken dinner, well, an almost daunting challenge. So we decided to conduct a little test. We bought 14 birds boasting a variety of qualifications. In addition to standard supermarket chickens, we bought birds that were labeled organic, free-range, natural,...

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