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World War II (1939-1945)
In Ypres, Belgium, a vibrant present stands proudly with the WWI past
In Ypres, Belgium, a vibrant present stands proudly with the WWI past

"In Flanders fields," the old poem says, "the poppies blow / Between the crosses, row on row." And in the middle of those fields stands Ypres (pronounced "EE-preh"), haunted by World War I but also sustained by it. Helmets, shells and maps crowd the British Grenadier Bookshop. Cemetery tours seem to begin every other hour. Gaunt faces stare from displays in the well-designed In Flanders Fields Museum. And every night as 8 approaches, authorities block traffic at the eastern entrance to the city, which you might otherwise notice for its 410-foot clock tower and posh chocolate shops. Once the road is emptied, the Menin Gate Memorial to the Missing,...

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