If you go
THE BEST WAY TO THE HOPI INDIAN RESERVATION, ARIZ.
From LAX, US Airways and American offer connecting service (change of planes) to Flagstaff, Ariz. Restricted round-trip airfares begin at $279, including taxes and fees. It's 92 miles to the reservation from Flagstaff.
WHERE TO STAY
Hopi Cultural Center, Milepost 379, State Route 264, Second Mesa, Ariz.; (928) 734-2401, http://www.hopiculturalcenter.com/directions. It sits in the heart of the reservation, with a restaurant, a small motel and a museum. A single room cost me $95 per night with decent Wi-Fi.
Moenkopi Legacy Inn & Suites, 1 Legacy Lane, Tuba City, Ariz.; (928) 283-4500, http://www.experiencehopi.com/hotel.html. More upscale, with rooms about $120. You can arrange tours from the hotel as well.
WHERE TO EAT
Tuba City, about 45 miles away, has the greatest variety if you want to drive.
Spider Grille, Milepost 381, State Route 264, Second Mesa, Ariz.. Sits in the desert and looks like a cross between a tent and a shack but serves outstanding burgers.
You can try to tour Hopiland without a guide, but you will see more and be regarded with less suspicion if you hire one. Some villages, such as Walpi, won't let you in without a guide.
Left-Handed Hunter Tour Co. (Gary Tso), Second Mesa, Ariz.; (928) 734-2567, or cell (928) 206-7928, firstname.lastname@example.org. Tso charges $210 for one person for a full-day tour and $160 for a half-day tour. Prices vary depending on the number in your party.
Other tours and guides can be found at Experience Hopi, (928) 283-4500, http://www.experiencehopi.com/tours.html.
TO LEARN MORE
There are countless books about the Hopi, but I like "Pages From Hopi History" by Harry James and the "Book of the Hopi" by Frank Waters.