The Luftwaffe poured hellfire over England during World War II. Taylor's "Dresden" reports that in spring 1942, Germany sent bombers to Exeter, Canterbury, Norwich and York. Their orders — as Nazi spokesman Baron Gustav Braun von Stum is said to have told the press — were to destroy "every building in England marked with three stars in the Baedeker Guide." The Allies reciprocated, wasting one German city after another. All the while, Dresden remained untouched, too beautiful and historic to target, people thought, until that winter night just months before the end of the war.


It's frivolous, perhaps, to rue the destruction of tourist sites in the same breath as the human casualties of war. But to lose a Frauenkirche is to lose history, art and culture that cannot easily be recovered. In Dresden, they have been, which makes the city doubly precious.

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Baroque landscape

GETTING THERE:

From LAX, Lufthansa and Air Canada offer connecting flights (change of plane) to Dresden. Restricted round-trip fares begin at $940.

I flew to Berlin and rented a car. It's about a two-hour drive, the same as by train. Lufthansa, Air France, KLM, British and Swiss offer connecting flights to Berlin. Restricted round-trip fares begin at $940.

TELEPHONES:

To call the numbers below from the U.S., dial 011 (the international dialing code), 49 (country code for Germany) and the local number.

WHERE TO STAY:

Kempinski Hotel Taschenbergpalais Dresden, Taschenberg 3, 01067, Dresden; 351-49120, http://www.kempinski-dresden.de , is one of the premier hotels in the city center in the renovated palace of Countess Cosel, the mistress of August the Strong. Doubles begin at $350.

Hotel Bülow Residenz, Rähnitzgasse 19, 01097, Dresden; 351-80030, http://www.buelow-residenz.de , is a small, elegant hotel just across the Elbe River from the city center, part of the Relais & Châteaux group. Doubles $270.

Hilton Dresden, An der Frauenkirche 5, 01067, Dresden; 351-86420, http://www.dresden.hilton.com , enjoys the best location of any hotel in the city, right across the street from the rebuilt Frauenkirche. It's a modern building with contemporary décor, several restaurants and a health club. Doubles, $140, though Hilton special rates and packages are sometimes available.

WHERE TO EAT:

Caroussel, Hotel Bülow Residenz (see above) is a formal restaurant with pitch-perfect service and a sophisticated French-German menu. A four-course dinner, without wine, costs $93.

Italienisches Dörfchen, 3 Theaterplatz, 351-498160, is a historic building on theater square, overlooking the Elbe River, with six restaurants, including a beer garden. Casual to elegant.

Alte Meister, Theaterplatz 1A, 351-4810426, is a pretty cafe restaurant with umbrella tables, just outside the Old Masters Picture Gallery in the Zwinger. Two-course dinner, with a glass of wine, about $36.

TO LEARN MORE:

Dresden Tourist Information, Schinkelwache/Theater Square, P.O. Box 120952, 01010, Dresden; 351-491920 http://www.dresden-tourist.de .

German National Tourist Office, (800) 651-7010, http://www.cometogermany.com .

— Susan Spano