No visit to San Felipe would be complete without a stop in Rockodile, the colorfully tacky, bass-thumping, gringo-friendly dance club and bar on the malecón. It served overpriced drinks and hip-hop hits interspersed with Latino pop. The crowd, a mix of locals and tourists, was young and relaxed. A burly, excitable waiter ushered us to our table, brought my gigantic, potent margarita in a flash and blew a shrill whistle by girls at another table to cajole them into drinking shots.
By Sunday we had all but exhausted San Felipe's possibilities. Well rested and full of fresh seafood, our final endeavor was to rise early and catch San Felipe's sunrise, a stunning vermilion sky that silhouetted palm trees out our window.
Budget for two
Expenses for this trip:
Hotel El Cortéz, three nights with tax $219.83
Kayak rental $20.00
Hotel El Cortéz $31.90
Hotel El Cortéz, two days $33.13
Baja Mar $56.79
Other meals, snacks $44.63
Mexican car insurance $34.99
Final tab $552.24
Hotel El Cortéz, Avenida Mar de Cortéz, San Felipe, Baja California, Mexico; or P.O. Box 1227, Calexico, CA 92232; 011-52-686-577-1056, email@example.com, www .sanfelipe.com.mx/business/el_cortez /index.html.
San Felipe Kayak and Paddle Boat Rentals, on the malecón, kayak@sanfelipe .com.mx.