Hilo, the center of hula hoopla

Mention hula and most folks imagine grass skirts, coconut bras and swaying hips. Like the flower lei and aloha shirt, this native Hawaiian dance has entered the realm of pop kitsch. But if you’ve seen only Hollywood hula or the watered-down versions offered at some hotels, you ain’t seen the real thing yet. That’s where the Big Island comes in.

 *

Almost a language

Among true practitioners, hula is a deep cultural endeavor. Serious students join a halau (school), where they undergo rigorous training and adopt hula as a life practice. Ancient Hawaiians had no written language, so chanting and hula were important means of communication. The dancers’ rhythmic movements, facial expressions and hand gestures convey Hawaiian genealogy, history and mythology, as well as reverence to Hawaiian deities, such as the volcano goddess, Pele.

 *

Let the games begin

To see authentic hula, an unbeatable venue is the annual Merrie Monarch Festival in Hilo on the island of Hawaii. Dubbed the Olympics of hula, it was established in 1964, lasts a week and includes craft fairs, a parade and three days of vigorous hula competition. Top hula troupes from Hawaii, the U.S. mainland and Japan compete in kahiko (ancient) and auana (modern) categories. Kahiko performances are raw and primordial, accompanied only by chanting, and they use a bent-knee stance to allow dancers to absorb Earth’s energy. Accompanied by harmonious singing and string instruments, auana seems more like mainstream hula, with Western-influenced muumuus and pants, sinuous arm movements and smiling faces.

 *

A very hip king

The festival is named after King David Kalakaua, nicknamed the “Merrie Monarch,” who became Hawaii’s seventh and last king in 1874 at age 37. Before his reign, Christian missionaries, who arrived in Hawaii in 1820, had deemed hula dancing too licentious and suppressed it. If Kalakaua had not revived hula during his reign, it might have been lost forever.

 *

Middle America? Here?

Hilo itself is well worth visiting. It’s the Big Island’s capital but feels like a relaxed, middle-American town (albeit one set alongside a picturesque bay and the endless Pacific). The tourist glitz found across the island in Kona and Kohala is nonexistent here. Perhaps that’s because of the 100-plus inches of annual rainfall. But the showers are balmy – and who cares when the result is lush foliage, pristine air and waterfalls all year round?

 *

Papayas: 25 cents

Hilo’s historic downtown, twice hit by tsunamis in the 20th century, is good for strolling. Meander around the little museums and art galleries, amid early-1900s architecture and a bevy of charming restaurants and shops. Don’t miss the eye-popping farmers market (Saturdays and Wednesdays), where you can buy luscious island-grown papayas for a quarter each. More than 100 farmers and craftspeople take part in the market, where they sell their produce, crafts, gift items and flowers in an atmosphere that hearkens back to the old “plantation” days of early Hilo. It’s open all year.

 *

Where to stay

The clean, friendly and centrally located Dolphin Bay Hotel is a bargain. All units have kitchens. Double rooms from $89 (333 Iliahi St., Hilo, HI 96720; [808] 935-1466, www.dolphinbayhotel.com). For a large hotel, the best option is the Hilo Hawaiian Hotel near Liliuokalani Park. Doubles from $99 (71 Banyan Drive, Hilo, HI 96720; [808] 935-9361, www.castleresorts.com). B&Bs include the Shipman House, the grande-dame mansion, with double rooms at $205 (131 Kaiulani St., Hilo, HI 96720; [808] 934-8002, www.hilo-hawaii.com). Also, check out a three-unit gem called Bay House that looks out over the ocean. Double rooms from $120 (42 Pukihae St., Hilo, HI 96720; [808] 961-6311, www.bayhousehawaii.com).

 *

Where to eat

The yuppie-fication of downtown Hilo has begun, but longtime favorite Cafe Pesto features island-grown ingredients and gourmet cuisine without pretensions. Dinner entrees from $10.95 (308 Kamehameha Ave., Hilo; [808] 969-6640; www.cafepesto.com). For an only-in-Hilo experience, head to the casual, family-owned Seaside Restaurant, which features fresh fish from aquaculture ponds right outside. Entrees from $15 (1790 Kalanianaole Ave., Hilo; [808] 935-8825). A great value is Miyo, which serves Japanese meals starting at $7 (400 Hualani St., Hilo; [808] 935-2273).

 *

Getting there

From LAX, United, American and Hawaiian offer direct flights to Kailua-Kona. United, American and American Trans Air offer connecting service (change of plane) to Kailua-Kona. Restricted round-trip fares start at $501. Most travelers journey on to Hilo by rental car, but inter-island flights from Honolulu fly directly to Hilo.