On a general's trail
From LAX: Lufthansa, Air France, KLM and Aer Lingus offer connecting service (change of plane) to Lyon, France. Restricted, round-trip fares begin at $570. La Queyras is a 190-mile, four-hour drive east from Lyon.
To call the numbers below from the U.S., dial 011 (the international dialing code), 33 (the country code for France), 492 (the area code) and the local number.
WHERE TO STAY:
Hôtel la Ferme de I'Izoard, La Chalp, Arvieux; 46-89-00, fax 46-82-37, http://www.laferme.fr . Chalet, built to resemble a traditional farmhouse, has 23 rooms, from comfortable to luxurious, with exceptional views. Doubles begin at $77.
Les Chalets du Villard, Quartier le Villard, St.-Véran; 45-82-08, fax 45-86-22, http://www.leschaletsduvillard.fr . Open June-September and December-April. Offers 21 studios and three luxury "comfort and health" studios. Apartments are available in the village. La Gratinée, the hotel restaurant, serves traditional dishes, including fondue. Doubles begin at $108.
Villa Serre Poullin, Aiguilles; 46-76-63, fax 46-87-48, http://www.villaserrepoullin.com . Nicely restored family-run guesthouse with three rooms in the rustic town of Aiguilles. Doubles start at $57.
Le Cazet, Quartier Pierre-Belle, St.-Véran; 45-81-39, fax 45-86-36. Three simple double rooms in a clean, restored village building; open summers and ski season only. Doubles start at $31.
Hôtel L'Astragale, St.-Véran; 45-87-00, fax 45-87-10, http://www.astragale.queyras.com . An Alpine farmhouse design with modern rooms, well-sprung beds and balconies. Doubles from $90.
WHERE TO EAT:
Restaurant La Cour St.-Jacques, Aiguilles; 46-71-20. Noted for its duck dish, magret de canard au coulis d'argousier; $47 for two.
Le Chamois, Molines en Queyras; 45-83-71. Traditional regional food prepared by a passionate French chef. Specialties include raclette and the veal dish côte de veau façon Queyrassine. Entrees $10-$30.
Hôtel Beauregard restaurant, St.-Véran, 45-86-86. Carré d'agneau flambé à l'alcool de mélèze, a lamb dish in larch alcohol; $50 for two.
Restaurant Lou Goustaroun, Abriès, 46-76-47. The fondue d'échauguette au génépy is a favorite with locals; $43 for two.
TO LEARN MORE:
La Queyras Tourist Office, Maison du Queyras, 05470 Aiguilles; 46-76-18, fax 46-81-44, http://www.queyras.com (French only).
French Government Tourist Office, (410) 286-8310 (for brochures) or (310) 271-6665, http://www.francetourism.com .
"Hannibal Crosses the Alps: The Invasion of Italy and the Punic Wars," by John Prevas.
"Hannibal," historic novel by Ross Leckie.