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Guidebook: Slowing Down to Island Time on Lipsi

Getting there: Connecting service is available from Los Angeles to Athens on Delta, British Airways, Air France, Lufthansa, KLM and Swiss. Restricted round-trip fares begin at $1,268.

From Athens, Olympic Airways flies to Samos round trip for $98. Hydrofoils leave the Samos port at Pythagorio for Lipsi daily through Sept. 24; they are on an irregular schedule during the rest of the year. Check ferry schedules at Hydrofoil reservations are recommended during July and August.

Telephones: To call the numbers below from the U.S., dial 011 (the international dialing code), 30 (country code for Greece) and the local number.

Where to stay: Hotel Calypso, 2470-41-420, one of the highest-rated hotels on the island, is opposite the ferry dock. Doubles are $34 in July and August, otherwise $24.

Another nice hotel, the Aphrodite, 2470-41-000, has doubles from $28 to $44 depending on the month. It is open May through October.

Studios Anna, 2470-41-126,, is on a hill above the village. Open May through October, it has kitchens. Doubles are $26 in July, $36 in August and $22 during the remainder of the season.

Almost next door, Studios Kalymnos, 2470-41-102,, has a terraced garden and kitchen facilities. Doubles are $14 in April, May, October and November, $21 in June and September and $32 in July and August.

Studios Barbarosa, 2470-41-202, in the village, has doubles for $24 in May and June. They go up to $43 in July and August and back to $24 in late September.

Panorama, 2470-41-235, has doubles for $24 in May, June and September, $34 in July and $37 in August. Reservations are recommended in July and August.

Where to eat: Yiannis Restaurant, 2470-41-395, is probably the island's most elegant. It has a romantic atmosphere with soft music and good, inexpensive food. Overlooks the ferry terminal. Entrees start at about $4.50.

The Plaka, 2470-41-065, off the village square and featuring a spiral staircase, has excellent local cuisine starting at about $4.

For cocktails, go to the Rock, 2470-41-180, the island's most popular hangout, where hors d'oeuvres, called mezedes, are less than $2. Try the grilled octopus.

Getting around: One bus leaves from the harbor every hour on the hour and traverses the few roads on the island. You can find the two taxis parked near the harbor, with the drivers not far away.

When to go: May, June and September are ideal. Avoid July and August. These are the Europeans' vacation months, and they swarm all over Greece, with many spilling onto Lipsi. The Italians have discovered the island, and locals say they hear more Italian than Greek in late summer.

More information: The Greek National Tourist Organization, 645 Fifth Ave., Olympic Tower, Suite 903, New York, NY 10022; (212) 421-5777, fax (212) 826-6940,

John Henderson

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