Treasure chest of history in Canada

Quebec City, founded in 1608, is the traditional spiritual home of French Canada. This northern enclave encompasses cobblestone streets, cliff-top perches and narrow passageways that reveal spired churches and hotels poised for panoramas of the St. Lawrence River below.

Calling all history hounds

The walled old city, called VieuxQuebec, is split between the Haute-Ville (Upper Town) and Basse-Ville (Lower Town). La Citadelle de Quebec, a fort at the peak of Cap-Diamant (Cape Diamond), is the highest history buffs can get in the city. The changing-of-the-guard ceremony on summer mornings gives a peek at Canada’s colonial past. In Parc des Champs-de-Bataille (Battlefields Park), the British defeated the French on the Plains of Abraham in 1759, sealing the region’s fate. Today, the Musee National des Beaux-Arts du Quebec displays rare works from Canada’s Inuit nations as well as a trove of Quebecois statuary.

Take a hike

Caleches (horse-drawn carriages) convey romantics around the Old Town. For walkers, a 3-mile circuit atop the walls can be a meditative hike. In 1633, French explorer Samuel de Champlain built a chapel that would become the impressive Basilique-Cathedrale Notre-Dame de Quebec in the Latin Quarter. The Musee de l’Amerique Francaise next door tells the tale of French settlement in the New World. Wandering around the museum’s quiet seminary-like courtyards and peering at the purported relics of saints can uplift your soul.

Strolling grounds

More earthly pleasures await inside the Chateau Frontenac, one of the grand luxury hotels built by the Canadian Pacific Railway just before the turn of the 20th century. This castle-like hotel is backed by the grassy strolling grounds of the Terrasse Dufferin. After your visit, ride the funicular or risk the Escalier Casse-Cou (“Breakneck Stairs”) down to the Lower Town, centered on the Place Royale. Follow the hordes along Rue du Petit Champlain and into the Musee de la Civilisation, with exhibits that focus on participation and interaction.

Board a boat

Venture farther outside the walls around the Vieux-Port (Old Port) area. Water plays a key role in the look and commerce of the sprawling 17th century city. For a beautiful view, take the ferry across the St. Lawrence to the town of Levis, on the southern bank of the river. Amble along Rue St.-Paul, where antiques and vintage shops overflow with early 20th century wares and relics of more pastoral times.

A healthy dose of hip

Don’t think Quebec is stuck in its past. There’s a modern, even bohemian, side to this city. Feel it in the gentrifying St. Roch district, with its art galleries on Rue St.-Vallier Est. DJs spin at L’Aviatic Club, nearby inside the sumptuous Gare du Palais train station. Outside the Upper Town’s western walls, traipse along Rue St.-Jean into a heady mix of fashion-forward boutiques, cozy bistros and bars.

Yes, a hotel made of ice

Quebec is a city for all seasons. In summer, free performances happen in the public squares of the Upper Town, especially near the Hotel de Ville (City Hall). Or brave the deep freeze during February, when the Carnaval de Quebec spawns ice sculptures, snow slides and fetes of music and drink. And visit North America’s only ice hotel (see below). Elsewhere in “La Belle Province,” you can go skiing in the quaint resort towns of the Laurentians or, in the warmer months, escape to pastoral Ile d’Orleans, an island of apple orchards, wineries and farmhouse restaurants that cook wild game.

Oh, that weather

Yes, a city that features a hotel made of ice knows how to handle the elements. If a dose of real winter is what you’re after, December offers the most snowfall, an average of 34 inches. January isn’t far behind with 30. It is also the coldest month, with average highs not breaking 20 degrees. The good news? There are 2,400 miles of snowmobile trails.

Where to stay

As noted, the Frontenac is a luxe landmark, with doubles from $194; (418) 692-3861, www.fairmont.com/frontenac. The Hotel Dominion 1912 is a modern retreat near the Old Port. Doubles from $145; (418) 692-2224, www.hoteldominion.com. West of town is the highly unusual Hotel de Glace Quebec-Canada, where walls and furniture are built of blocks of ice. It’s open from January to early April. Doubles, including two meals, from $500; (418) 875-4522, www.icehotel-canada.com.

Where to eat

Pay homage to tradition at Restaurant aux Anciens Canadiens, which, although touristy, dishes up authentic Quebecois specialties inside a 17th century home. 34 Rue St.-Louis; (418) 692-1627. Complete meals from $29; Also in the Upper Town, casual Casse-Crepe Breton serves savory and sweet crepes, from about $6; 1136 Rue St.-Jean; (418) 692-0438. Outside the walls, the bohemian cafe Le Hobbit offers belly-warming nouvelle fare, from about $8; 700 Rue St.-Jean, (418) 647-2677.

Getting there

From LAX, Air Canada, Continental, Northwest and Delta offer connecting service to Quebec. Restricted round-trip fares begin at $537.

To learn more

Contact the Quebec City & Area Tourism and Convention Bureau for schedules of upcoming events and information on activities from spas to snowboarding. (418) 641-6654, www.quebecregion.com.