From LAX, Continental, Delta, Lufthansa, British Airways, American, Northwest, Air France, Aer Lingus, KLM and US Airways offer connecting flights (change of plane) to Rome.
Restricted round-trip fares currently begin at $734; in summer high season, they start at $950.
To call the numbers below from the U.S., dial 011 (the international dialing code), 39 (country code for Italy) and the number.
WHERE TO EAT::
Da Vito e Dina, 50 Via degli Scipioni (near Piazza del Risorgimento); 06-39723293. Closed Tuesdays.
Cacio e Pepe, 11 Via Avezzana; 06-3217268. Cash only. Closed Sundays.
Dar Filettaro a Santa Barbara, 88 Largo dei Librari (off Via dei Giubbonari); 06-6864018. The sign on the place reads only "Filetti di Baccala." Cash only. Closed Saturday evenings and Sundays.
Da Augusto, 15 Piazza di Renzi; 06-5803798. Cash only. Closed Saturday evenings and Sundays.
Sora Lucia, 41 Via della Panetteria (near Trevi Fountain); 06-6794078. Closed Mondays.
Nuraghe Sardo, 50 Viale delle Medaglie d'Oro; 06-39736584. Closed Wednesdays.
Ristorante Demetra, 21 Via Gaeta (near Termini train station); 06-48904278. Closed Mondays at lunch.
TO LEARN MORE:
"Lonely Planet Rome" by Sally Web, $17.99. Lists upscale places but also shows "Cheap Eats" options for each neighborhood.
"Rick Steves' Italy 2004," Avalon Travel Publishing, $18.95. Steves loves Italy and loves a bargain; his budget recommendations are helpful.
Italian Government Tourist Board, (310) 820-1898, italiantourism.com.