THE BEST WAY TO PALERMOFrom LAX, connecting service (change of planes) to Palermo, Italy, is available on Air France and Delta, connecting to Alitalia, Lufthansa and British. Restricted round-trip fares begin at $407.
TELEPHONESTo call the numbers below from the U.S., dial 011 (the international dialing code), 39 (country code for Italy) and the local number.
WHERE TO STAYHotel Villa Mokarta, 84A Via Macello, Salemi, 0924-98-33-15, www.mokarta.it. It's outside the historic center in a modern building without charm. The family that runs the hotel is very sweet, the rooms have modern comforts and the restaurant offers excellent daily specials; doubles cost about $151, including breakfast.
Hotel Giardino di Costanza, 0923-67-50-00, www.kempinski.com/sicily, a Kempinski hotel 30 minutes south of Salemi, has a beautiful pool and spa. Doubles begin at about $445.
The Salemi tourist office (see To Learn More) can suggest bed-and-breakfasts in the area.
WHERE TO EATAl Ciliegio, 346-47-49-855, off Highway 188A, just north of Salemi, is everything you ever dreamed of in Sicilian food, especially the award-winning busiati al sugu. There are just six tables, and reservations are required; dinner for two about $50.
Caffé Moderno, 13 Piazza Alicia, Salemi, 0924-64-664, serves caffeine and alcohol underneath Salemi's medieval castle.
Sorsi d'Autore, 5 Piazza Simone Corleo, Salemi, 0924-98-24-85, is a delightful wine bar, or enoteca, in Salemi's historic center where you can leave yourself in the hands of the chef for about $20, per person; reservations advised.
TO LEARN MOREAssociazione Pro Loco Salemi, 8 Piazza Liberta, 0924-98-14-26, www.prolocosalemi.it.
Italian Government Tourist Board, (310) 820-1898, www.italiantourism.com.