NEAR CAPE TOWN: THE CAPE WINELANDS
Winemaking in the Cape area dates to the 17th century, when Dutch settlers and French Huguenots began planting here. Now scores of wineries thrive around the cities of Stellenbosch, Paarl and Franschoek, amid scenery more dramatic than most of the California wine country. Although the serious wine person will debate which tasting rooms deserve visits, let me offer these words to the not-so-serious: Go to Stellenbosch (about 30 miles outside Cape Town) and check out the palatial tasting rooms, cellar and grounds of erstwhile golfer Ernie Els (www.ernieelswines.com), built in 2004.
Besides well-regarded red wines, you can admire photos of Els' sporting triumphs and bask in the Napa-on-the-Atlantic grandeur of it all. Then, for less grandeur and more action, head to the nearby Spier winery (www.spier.co.za), a vast enterprise where the tasting room is joined by a 155-room hotel, several restaurants, swimming pools, spa, craft market, horse stables, amphitheater, eagle-rehabilitation center and a cheetah outreach project where you can see fast cats up close and, for a few dollars more, pet one.
IN JOHANNESBURG: LAW, DISORDER AND RUGBY
Just about the worst move you could make in Johannesburg, many locals say, would be to linger after dark in crime-ridden Hillbrow, the neighborhood next to Ellis Park Stadium. But if you have tickets for one of the matches at the stadium (perhaps the June 18 contest between the U.S. and Slovenia), remember: This is where, in 1995, South Africa's then-President Nelson Mandela (now 91 and retired from public life) donned a green athletic shirt and walked onto the field to show solidarity with the nation's mostly white national rugby team as it faced a World Cup final match. This is the boundary-breaking moment that the movie "Invictus" was built around, and white South Africans still marvel at the power of that moment.
Near Ellis Park is a spot you can visit -- Constitution Hill, where South Africa's highest court meets in a chamber partly built from recycled prison bricks. With cattle hides stretched across the justices' tables, windows showing the feet of passersby and an open visitor area, the symbolism of the 2004 design is a virtual demand that the jurists work with transparency and humility. Tours are offered every day but Sunday (www.constitutionalcourt.org.za).
IN JOHANNESBURG: SOWETO
For the World Cup faithful, the center of the universe will be Johannesburg's dramatically upgraded Soccer City Stadium, site of the tournament's first match (South Africa versus Mexico on June 11) and its final one on July 11. Locals call it the Calabash, because its pixilated red-and-brown exterior reminds them of a traditional pot for preparing food or brewing beer.
But if you're curious about South African society, another vital stop is just a few miles away: Soweto. Born in the early 20th century as a residence for black male laborers, the township received global attention in the 1970s and '80s as a site of profound poverty and key battles in the campaign against apartheid. Now it's a big chunk of Johannesburg (40 to 100 square miles, depending how you count) with two malls, a major hospital and an estimated 2 million or more residents, some in spacious residences with water and electricity that would look at home in Simi Valley, others in squatters' shacks. (Imagine if Tijuana were part of San Diego.) Sign on for a daylong tour and you'll see Vilakazi Street, where Mandela lived in the 1940s and '50s and where Archbishop Emeritus Desmond Tutu lives now.
I took away a more personal impression from the Motsoaledi Informal Settlement (a.k.a. squatters' camp), where about 20,000 people live in shacks and unemployment is estimated at 60%. "There is no electricity here," resident tour-guide Mandla Shongwe explained. "People are using paraffin for cooking, so there are a lot of fires, especially in winter." Still, Shongwe said: "There is a difference between living in poverty and living in misery."
IN JOHANNESBURG: THE APARTHEID MUSEUM
Make time for this. South Africa's history is a tangled, bloody, inspiring, irony-and-surprise-ridden story, especially the apartheid years from the late 1940s to the early 1990s. This provocative museum (www.apartheidmuseum.org), opened in 2001, is the place to take it in. Allow two or three hours, even if you don't usually linger in museums.
NEAR JOHANNESBURG: CRITTERS UP CLOSE
Some of the best wildlife game-viewing in South Africa is at Kruger National Park -- which is convenient if you're headed to watch a match in the nearby city of Nelspruit, or if you've set aside a few days for travel around the country. But for travelers who want to grab game encounters closer to Johannesburg, Pilanesburg Game Reserve (www.pilanesberg-game-reserve.co.za) is an easier choice, about 90 minutes from Johannesburg or Pretoria, next door to the Sun City casino and entertainment complex. Or, if you'd need to stick within an hour of Johannesburg but still want to reach out and touch an elephant or get a big, wet trunk-kiss from one, there's the Elephant Sanctuary (www.elephantsanctuary.co.za) at Hartbeespoort Dam.
NEAR JOHANNESBURG: PRETORIA
Johannesburg's first gold boom occurred in the late 19th century, and much of the money has since migrated to its well-secured northern suburbs, where many of the best hotels and restaurants are. (For a taste of that good life, have a sunset drink amid the tribal designs and face-painters of the massive Moyo restaurant at Zoo Lake in the Randburg area, then head for dinner at one of the flashy eateries at Melrose Arch.)
If you keep traveling north 30 more miles, you'll hit Pretoria. This leafy city is the seat of South Africa's executive government, home to the stolid old buildings around Church Square, the national government's distinguished Union Buildings, and the century-old Loftus Versfeld Stadium, which will host six World Cup matches, including U.S.-Algeria on June 23.
After downtown Joburg and Soweto, Pretoria feels like a different country, its history dominated by Afrikaner farmers (a.k.a. Boers), mostly descended from Dutch, German and French immigrants, who came to South Africa centuries ago. These are the white farmers who fought the British for control of the country in the 19th and early 20th centuries, the dogged fighters whose leaders instituted apartheid in the 1940s.
In all of South Africa, you'd be hard-pressed to find a more potent symbol of those old ways than the Voortrekker Monument at the edge of town. It's a solemn stone box atop a series of steps, built in 1940 to commemorate the Boers' defeat of Zulu forces in the early 19th century. It gave me the willies.
IN JOHANNESBURG: THE HIGH-UP LOWDOWN:
For an easy bird's-eye view of downtown JoBurg, try the 50th-floor observation deck of the Carlton building, which rises above a mall. Or you could do what I did. We were in Soweto, driving by the Orlando Towers, a pair of concrete cooling towers (picture Three Mile Island) that helped deliver electricity to the city from the 1950s until 1998. Since then, the towers have been covered top to bottom by colorful murals. And since 2008, the towers have been rigged with gear for bungee jumping and something called "power swinging," which is like rappelling (so you go down feet first, not head-first). The tower spoke to me.
Soon I was stepping into the orange shipping containers that serve as the operation's offices, watching a couple of other jumpers, inquiring about prices (360 rand, about $48, for a power swing, 60 rand, about $8, for a ride to the viewing platform) fatalities (none so far) and traffic (40 jumpers on a busy Saturday). Then I was up top, trying to keep cool.
"Look," I wanted to say. "I can see Desmond Tutu's house from here." But what came out was:
"Um. Feeling some nerves."
"Perfectly natural," said the jump master. Then came the countdown. And then I took the big step and plunged in free-fall for a purported 3.5 seconds (it felt like less). As tension on the ropes increased, my fall slowed and I swung back and forth, those enormous murals growing and shrinking and coming and going at crazy angles, the sound system throbbing below. Eventually the Earth came up to gently greet me. It was a hoot. I hope the World Cup works out the same way.