THE BEST WAY TO TODOS SANTOS
From LAX, nonstop service to Cabo San Lucas is offered on Alaska, American, Mexicana and United, and connecting service (change of plane) is offered on US Airways, American, Continental and Mexicana. Restricted round-trip fares begin at $170. The drive to Todos Santos, which is about 50 miles north of the airport, will take about an hour and 45 minutes.
From LAX, connecting service to La Paz is offered on Aeromexico and Mexicana. Restricted round-trip fares begin at $398. Todos Santos is also a one-hour drive from La Paz-Manuel de Leon Airport.
To call the numbers below from the U.S., dial 011 (the international dialing code) 52 (the country code for Mexico) and the local number.
WHERE TO STAY
Rancho Pescadero, 6 miles south of Todos Santos; 612-135-5849 (or direct from U.S.,  300-8891), www.ranchopescadero.com. Twelve rooms, restaurant and pool on 15 acres neighboring dunes and beach. Getting there, expect a mile of dirt road after you leave the highway. Rates $185-$300. No children younger than 12.
Posada la Poza, Colonia La Poza, A.P. 10, Todos Santos; 612-145-0400, http://www.lapoza.com. Eight rooms, restaurant and pool on four acres at the edge of a lagoon. Rates $210-$480, with some "recession discounts" as much as 25%. Breakfast included. No children younger than 13.
Hotel California, Benito Juárez e/Morelos y Márquez de León, Todos Santos, Colonia Centro; 612-145-0525; http://www.hotelcaliforniabaja.com. Eleven rooms festooned with bright colors and art, with restaurant, shop and pool on the liveliest block downtown. Rates $110-$215. Children OK.
WHERE TO EAT
Michael's at the Gallery, at Galeria de Todos Santos, Calle Legaspi and Topete, Todos Santos; 612-145-0500. Asian fusion cuisine. Dinner only, Thursday through Saturday. Main dishes $15-25.
Miguel's, Avenida Santoa Degollado and 2 Rangel, Barrio San Vicente, Todos Santos; 612-145-0733. Renowned chile rellenos and other Mexican fare, made and served by a lifelong local resident and his family. Lunch and dinner. Cash only, dirt floor, impeccably clean. Main dishes up to $10.
Café Santa Fé, 4 Calle Centenario, Todos Santos; 612-145-0340; no website. Fine Italian dining on the town plaza. Founded 20 years ago by Ezio and Paula Colombo (formerly of Italy and New York, respectively), who still run it. Lunch and dinner, closed Tuesdays. Main dishes about $19-39.
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