Rabbit Island once lived up to its name.

In the local language, this is known as Rabbit Island, so named because some 19th-century genius thought it would make a fine place for shooting bunnies.

Apparently they liked it for a while -- they multiplied, as bunnies will, and ate it barren, even though this is a territory of rampant wetness.

Even now, more than 10 years after the, um, eradication of the last hare (Happy Easter!), the island -- which some people call Manana -- looks well-nibbled. Just looking at it, some people find themselves daydreaming of a cook, or at least some sandwiches.

Anyway, to see this island, I'm standing on the stony shore of . . .