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National park tips: See the Colorado River turn on itself like a coiling snake

Bugaboo Lodge, Alberta, Canada

The scene: A mountain lodge dominated by heli-skiers in winter, heli-hikers in summer, about 200 miles west of Calgary and 30 miles from the nearest paved road. Built in the 1960s, this lodge faces the snowy molars of the Purcell mountain range, and its copters connect visitors to extraordinary hikes. As in the old days, there are no TVs or phones in rooms, but now there is Wi-Fi. (In renovations by Canadian Mountain Holidays since my summer 1997 visit, it's gained 11 rooms and a rooftop hot tub.)
Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times
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