FIRST IMPRESSIONS: You’ve probably said it yourself:...

FIRST IMPRESSIONS: You’ve probably said it yourself: “I love the first courses in Italian restaurants, but after the pasta, I can never figure out what to order.” Well, one Italian restaurateur heard it so often that he decided to do something about it. He’s called the place Primi, which is short for primi piatti, which is Italian for first courses.

But Primi, 10543 Pico Blvd., (213) 475-9235, is more than just an innovative idea for a restaurant; it is the brainchild of Piero Selvaggio, owner of Valentino, who has thrown all of his considerable energy into the project. He has transformed the former Mangia into a stunning, airy, modern restaurant with an open kitchen where you can watch four young Italian chefs make dishes like flower-shaped ravioli filled with green peppers in walnut sauce, risotto with mascarpone, or little purses of beef filled with sprouts, parmigiano and truffle oil. Nothing on the menu costs more than $10, but the food is so appealing that you’re tempted to taste everything. Next week even smaller tidbits will be added to the menu: panini (little sandwiches), the rice fritters called arancini, little toasts covered with game. . . . The place is barely a week old, but it already looks as if Primi is raising grazing to new heights.