French Riviera Travel Guide: Coastal Highlights, Rail Tips & Hilltop Towns

Beach clubs, sparkling turquoise waters and lavender fields are only some of what makes the French Riviera so special. I spent five days in the beginning of September swimming in the Mediterranean Sea, getting kissed by the European sun and eating gelato under yellow streetlights every night.

If you’re mapping out your own French Riviera trip, it helps to understand that this legendary slice of Southern France spans over 100 kilometers of spectacular coastline. It stretches all the way from glitzy beach resorts down to the Italian border, offering an incredible mix of wonderful beaches and steep hilltop towns. Anyone planning to visit the French Riviera should know that this is a really beautiful page others will love for planning a bucket list escape, and a perfect prompt to share your best vacation photos and stories.

To maximize your time spent here, aim to arrive in May, June, or September. July and August are peak tourist months with massive crowds—a total nightmare if you hate waiting in long lines. By scheduling an off-season shoulder trip, you’ll enjoy milder temperatures, fewer tourists, and still catch plenty of the 300 days of annual sunshine the region brags about.

Arriving in Nice: Seafront Dining and Old Town Charm

After passing by many stunning towns during a six-hour southbound train ride from Paris, my arrival in Nice was immediately met with dinner at Le Plongeoir.

Le Plongeoir.

The iconic Le Plongeoir, perched on a rocky outcrop while the Mediterranean Sea curls and crashes beneath it, feels like a wish come true. The truffle pasta with a garnish of truffle shavings that rested on top, slightly melting into the rigatoni, stood out from all the dishes I indulged in while in Nice.

The chatter of families and lovers around me, under enough light to make the deep blue evening sea stand out, created an atmosphere that can only be found in magical places. Naturally, this meal had to be paired with a treat after dinner with a walk to Oui, Jelato in Old Town, Nice. My creamy pistachio gelato that dripped onto the crunchy cone slowly melted as I walked on the streets under the European yellow hue reflected off the streetlights.

Walking through the narrow alleys of Old Town in the evening made me feel like I had been wrapped in warmth that was not heat, but history. It was an invitation to linger, slow down and romanticize the cobblestones that glistened like honey. The yellow hue was made for lovers to dance under.

Finally, settling in at Hôtel West End, our home base, I prepped to spend the following four days exploring the Côte d’Azur.

After a good night’s sleep, my first full day in Nice was spent at Bocca Mar Beach Club, swimming in the rocky sea made comfortable with water shoes that, even though I had doubts about using, proved immensely convenient. I spent my day tanning, swimming and eating Bocca Mar’s delectable Caesar salad with crispy chicken, feta salad paired with watermelon, with a Coke Zero to drink, of course. From cloudy in the morning to immediately sunny in the afternoon, the weather in the French Riviera at the end of summer in September is nothing short of perfect.

Can’t-miss Nice highlights for your itinerary

Nice serves as the single largest city on the French Riviera, making it a stellar central base for day trips up and down the coast. When you’re putting together your personal Nice presentation, make sure to include a walk up to Castle Hill for a sweeping, birds-eye look at the deep blue sea. For foodies, the Cours Saleya open-air local market is an absolute must. It’s the perfect spot to sample delicious cuisine unique to the region.

If you’re exploring the narrow streets of the charming old town, don’t miss the chance to grab some authentic local street food. You have to try socca—a savory chickpea pancake popular in Nice that’s served hot and crispy. The city has a great food scene ranging from high-end Michelin-starred restaurants to casual legacy stands. If you have some extra time, the Matisse Museum up in the Cimiez neighborhood is easily accessible and offers an incredible look at the artist’s legendary career, and pairs perfectly with a broader guide to what to see in Nice, France. It’s guaranteed to give you some great material for Nice pictures.

After a stop at the pharmacy for new skin products, I returned to my hotel to prepare for an evening in Monte Carlo, Monaco.

Is public transport the best way to move along the coast?

Public transport is definitely the easiest and cheapest way to hop between the seaside towns without dealing with horrific coastal traffic. Most of the famous spots along the coast are chained together by a single rail line known as the TER train line. It’s fast, and individual train tickets between towns cost around EUR 1.50, which is an absolute steal.

You can just wander over to the nearest train station, buy a ticket at the kiosk, and you’re good to go. It makes the region incredibly well-connected and simple to explore if you’re focusing on coastal gems. That said, if you plan to head deep into the hills to see remote hilltop villages, I highly recommend renting a car instead. A rental car offers unmatched flexibility for navigating the steep mountain passes, even if finding a spot to park feels like an Olympic sport.

A Day Trip to Èze and the Glamour of Monte Carlo

Prior to arriving in Monaco, I stopped by Èze, a small village fifteen minutes away from Nice and on the way to Monaco.

This village felt like stepping into the town where “Romeo and Juliet” was made, becoming more romantic as I walked uphill on the cobblestones, amid the plants, yellow buildings and clothes hanging outside apartment balconies to dry. While so close, Monaco was the exact opposite of Èze.

Èze is a gorgeous medieval village perched about 1,400 to 1,500 feet above sea level, famous across the globe for its steep drop-offs and its panoramic Exotic Garden. Monaco is the total flip side of that coin—an ultra-glamorous seaside town where billionaires dock their mega yachts and high-rollers spend their nights at the legendary Monte Carlo Casino.

In a place where chance and destiny dance together with the shuffle of cards, the sound of luxurious cars going down the Circuit de Monaco, and the Prince’s Palace, there is more than just casinos and glamour. The glimmering sea by the Mediterranean coast, history of the Prince’s Palace with its medieval roots, and mountains around the city that feel like they are protecting it, are all part of Monte Carlo’s unique charm. My evening in the small country was spent at Amazónico, eating fresh sashimi and seafood paella.

Why you should add Saint-Paul-de-Vence and its art galleries to your next trip

Saint-Paul-de-Vence offers an incredible, culture-filled alternative to the busy beach clubs, making it a mandatory stop for your next trip. This ancient small town is famous for its remarkably preserved medieval architecture and a high concentration of indie art galleries. Walking through the stone-paved paths of Saint-Paul feels like walking through a living postcard, much like wandering the canals and alleys while exploring Venice, Italy’s city of canals.

Countless legendary artists have fallen in love with this place over the years, setting up studios inside its thick stone walls. It’s one of those classic hilltop towns where you can easily spend an entire afternoon ducking into eccentric art galleries, checking out local sculptures, and enjoying a quiet cup of coffee away from the coastal heat, the same kind of slow, history-soaked travel you find when journeying through Puglia’s centuries, caves and cuisine. It’s easily one of the most picturesque towns in the entire region.

A Serene Escape to Saint-Tropez

My next day trip in the Côte d’Azur was spent in Saint-Tropez, mostly at the luxurious La Réserve Beach Club, swimming in the clear blue waters. Isolated and serene, this beach club felt like I stepped into an image after searching “paradise.” Stepping into the water, it felt like being given the most delicate hug by refreshing water and sea salt while standing on the soft sand beneath my feet. Sunny but not scorching hot, I noticed that I never felt the initial chill of getting out of the water as I had before in France.

My relaxing day in Saint-Tropez ended with shopping, walking by the yachts on the port, and having dinner at Senequier, enjoying steak and fries, salmon tartare and a burrata salad in front of the port, decorated with a pink sky in the back as the sun was setting. There was something about the South of France that made me crave fish and sushi, and in a few words, I was not disappointed—just as I wasn’t when following a detailed Florence food guide to trattorias and classics on a past Italian trip. My dessert consisted of the iconic La Tropézienne and a cappuccino. This pastry, created in Saint-Tropez, is made with a soft brioche bun cut in half and, like a sandwich, filled with a creamy mixture of buttercream and pastry cream. The top is dusted with pearl sugar for a change of texture and a little crunch in each bite, followed by the soft brioche and filling. I have never thought the same about dessert since tasting this sandwich.

Moreover, part of what made this dinner so special was people-watching those around me and those walking by outside of the restaurant, wondering if they were thinking the same as I was. Not knowing what to put their eyes on, in awe of the Côte d’Azur skies, or wondering if the people on the yachts are tourists or locals. At the same time, I also thought about how many people were around me, all living their own different lives, going to different places and working different occupations. The French Riviera constantly put me in awe.

After a rideshare back to Hôtel West End in Nice, reflecting on the trip I had so far while looking out the window, it was time to sleep and wake up on my last day in France.

Carlton Hotel, Cannes

Discovering the rugged Alpes-Maritimes and blooming lavender fields

The dramatic geography of the Alpes-Maritimes department offers a massive escape from the crowded sandy beaches, trading sea level for high alpine peaks, and is part of a much larger network of incredible routes if you want to explore the great French outdoors from Alps to Côte d’Azur. If you head up into the mountains, Mercantour National Park is loaded with incredible hiking trails that cut through pine forests and lakes. For an unbelievable coastal view without the long trek, take a ride up to Tête de Chien—it’s a massive rock face that sits 550 meters high, offering a stunning view straight down onto Monaco.

If you’re dying to see the famous lavender fields, you’ll need to coordinate your calendar carefully, especially if you’re also dreaming about Provence in the fall during harvest season. Those rolling purple fields peak around early to mid-July, meaning you’ll miss the bloom if you plan an off-season autumn trip. But the region’s historic coastal towns easily make up for it. Take Villefranche-sur-Mer, a gorgeous old fishing village with pastel buildings located only 20 minutes outside of Nice, which is just one stop in a region that proves the Mediterranean is not just a summer destination. Sitting down for a delicious dinner right on the water near the iconic Welcome Hotel—a historic waterfront spot where Elizabeth Taylor used to stay—is an absolute dream.

Further down the coast, the historic town of Antibes gives you a completely different vibe. It features the largest marina in the Mediterranean Sea, meaning it’s the playground for serious mega yachts and a natural counterpart to another iconic seaside destination like Monterey County. Right next to the docks, you can lose yourself in a charming old town guarded by ancient stone ramparts, which happens to house the iconic Picasso Museum. It’s a gorgeous stop that makes for a beautiful description in any travel journal.

Saving the Best for Last: Exploring Cannes

It was an immensely bittersweet day exploring Cannes because all I wanted to do was stay. I realized that Cannes was my favorite city I had visited in the Côte d’Azur, and I became even more emotional over the end of my trip. In a way, this town reminded me of a beachy Paris. Walking in Old Town Cannes, hearing people conversing on their apartment balconies hanging over gelato shops or restaurants became a treasured memory.

The colorful apartment buildings, from pink and yellow to light blue, gave the city such a special personality. As I walked, I saw older couples sitting together, laughing, or drinking coffee on balconies that overlooked such a unique part of Cannes – it was at this moment that I understood how beautiful aging is.

Cannes is universally famous for hosting the star-studded Cannes Film Festival every spring, but it has plenty of down-to-earth charm if you know where to look. If you wake up early to beat the crowds, wander over to the historic Forville market. It’s a legendary covered local market where you can watch residents shop for fresh regional produce, cheese, and morning catches, giving you an authentic taste of everyday life.

I spent the rest of my last day in the French Riviera drinking an iced matcha latte at Saddle, swimming in the deepest blue sea at Carlton Beach Club, having lunch at their restaurant, shopping, and watching the sun go down behind the sea. Of all the sunsets I have seen in my life, I will never forget the one I saw in Cannes. Such a delicate pink, perfectly fused with the clouds above the sea. Most sunsets feel loud, but this one was a mere whisper.

My night ended at La Môme, eating tuna tartare, pasta and the biggest cookie I have ever seen. I was most excited at 11 p.m., when the live performance invited the audience to join in, twirling their napkins and holding candles high in the air. People were clapping, dancing and singing, and I felt like I was in a movie. My trip definitely ended on such a high note.

If you have time to squeeze in one last stop, head to Menton, a lively border town known as the ‘Pearl of France.’ It’s famous for its warm microclimate, magnificent gardens, and iconic colorful architecture that looks like a painting. If you visit during the winter, you can catch their unique annual Lemon Festival, where the town builds massive, jaw-dropping sculptures entirely out of fresh lemons and oranges.

Final Thoughts on the French Riviera

The French Riviera will forever feel like a dream stitched from sea foam, sunlight, and a song. Each city is so different from one another, yet together they form a single heartbeat along the coast. As I left, I carried not just memories, but the glow of a place that teaches you how to live beautifully, moment by fleeting moment.