(Photo illustration by Los Angeles Times)
For Paris lovers, 33 favorite restaurants, bakeries, cafes, bistros and bars
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Paris is modern because it’s constantly changing yet also stays the same. Radical everyday urbanism that synchronizes with strict heritage preservation means its architectural beauty endures and everything else is fluid, including its dining scene.
The latest neo-bistros, wine bars, bakeries and specialty coffee shops always promise new and energizing pleasures. But after many, many visits to the world’s most elegant city (there’s actually a Guinness World Record for it), we seek out the familiar — a neighborhood restaurant we’re devoted to, an always-buzzing bar à vin, a classic bistro steeped in history, or the best boulangerie for croissants, choux à la crème or chocolate babka.
Here are the Parisian restaurants, cafes and shops we return to again and again.
—Betty Hallock
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Brasserie Lipp
French $$
(Laurie Ochoa / Los Angeles Times)
The debate goes back more than 100 years: Café de Flore or Les Deux Magots? For me, the answer is Brasserie Lipp. Hemingway ate — and drank — at all three of the literary gathering spots that form a triangle of nostalgia on the Boulevard Saint-Germain. But he probably ate best at the Lipp, where a beautifully crisp-edged breaded and stuffed pig‘s trotter — pied de porc farci, grillé — is served with a potato puree so smooth with butter it goes far beyond mashed potatoes. Waiters in classic black tuxedo jackets, bow ties and long, starched white aprons navigate the tightly spaced dining room, delivering plates of escargots, herring and choucroute garnie to locals and tourists with efficiency and good humor. The gorgeous, banquette-lined main dining room, all mirrors, brass fixtures and Art Nouveau ceramic tile, is a wonderful place to sit with a dozen oysters and people watch. And though the brasserie is associated with long-gone figures (Cocteau, Camus, Proust, Joyce, Sartre, de Beauvoir), its cultural history is still being written, with Jean Dujardin, Vincent Lindon and Michel Houellebecq among the artists, actors and writers who still love the Lipp.
151 Boulevard Saint-Germain, 75006 Paris
151 Boulevard Saint-Germain, 75006 Paris
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Breizh Cafe
Pastries Café $
(Bill Addison/Los Angeles Times)
In Paris, one easily could tangent into a hunt for superior crepes. Breiz Cafe has 13 locations in and around Paris, a chain by any standard; trustworthy Paris restaurant publications recommend it, rightly, as a no-stress choice for a crowd-pleasing group outing. The savory galette with ham, egg and Comté cheese delivered lacy texture and deep buckwheat flavor (as is traditional in Brittany, where the company originates), and a sweet crepe suzette, flambéed with Grand Marnier, flickered with a taut dash of yuzu as well. To drink: dry pear cider.
1 Rue de l’Odéon, 75006 Paris
1 Rue de l’Odéon, 75006 Paris
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Café des Ministères
French $$$
(Laurie Ochoa / Los Angeles Times)
A beautiful neighborhood restaurant that happens to have a devoted international following. Which means you’ll see plenty of regulars — and their Parisian dogs — among the food-loving tourists eating thick slabs of the house terrine, a tripe lover’s dream of the classic dish in a cast-iron serving pan, Normandy scallops atop some of the world’s great mashed potatoes piped on the shell, or “Grande Tradition” vol-au-vent, the flaky pastry filled with truffled sweet breads and free-range poultry. Jean and Roxane Sévègnes, who met while working with multi-Michelin-starred chef Hélène Darroze, are the husband-and-wife team dedicated to not just preserving some of France’s classic dishes, but also making them relevant and vital for a new generation of diners.
83 Rue de l’Université, 75007 Paris
83 Rue de l’Université, 75007 Paris
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Café Nuances
Coffee $
(Betty Hallock / Los Angeles Times)
The proliferation of specialty coffee shops channeling American, Australian and Scandinavian styles continues apace across Paris. Café Nuances might be at the epicenter of polarizing “lifestyle” cafes, specifically its Marais location in the most tourist-dense part of the neighborhood. And yet, I’m a fan. I like the carefully sourced and roasted beans, fun specialty drinks and Uchronia-designed retro-future spaces wrapped in psychedelic ombre hues (not so much the paper cups, even if you’re drinking sur place). Pour-over purists, head straight to Substance or Télescope.
51 Rue des Francs Bourgeois, 75004 Paris. Multiple locations.
51 Rue des Francs Bourgeois, 75004 Paris. Multiple locations.
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Caractère de Cochon
French $
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(Jenn Harris/Los Angeles Times)
I may not be fluent in French, but I speak fluent sandwich. And the only jambon-beurre you need to eat in Paris is from Caractère de Cochon. The staff allow just one party into the tiny shop at a time, and build your sandwich to order from a case of cured meats, a stack of crackly baguettes and a mountain of good French butter.
42 Rue Charlot, 75003 Paris
42 Rue Charlot, 75003 Paris
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Chez Georges
French $$
(Bill Addison/Los Angeles Times)
Several restaurants in Paris operate under the name Chez Georges. The one worth calling weeks ahead to secure lunch or dinner reservations is the 62-year-old bistro that resides at 1 Rue du Mail, a five-minute walk from the Jardin du Palais Royal. Jean-Gabriel de Bueil leads a suave cast of characters in a rowdy, cramped, exhilarating room. Dishes read, thrillingly so, like the meals your high school French teacher would describe in misty recollections of her time abroad: pavé de turbot, salade frisée, ris de veau, côtes d’agneau grillé. Portions are huge. No matter how full you might feel, finish with a slice of must-have tarte Tatin.
1 Rue du Mail, 75002 Paris
1 Rue du Mail, 75002 Paris
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Clamato
Seafood $$
(Bill Addison/Los Angeles Times)
Septime, the modern bastion of bistronomy, rides on its international fame and yes, it’s wonderful, as is wine bar spinoff Septime La Cave around the corner. Also, bookings for them disappear nearly the minute they go live online. An alternative idea: Show up for lunch at Clamato, the group’s seafood restaurant next door to Septime that doesn’t take reservations. Beautiful plates of fish and shellfish from the French coast, most seasoned with restraint and with a nod to Japan (say, bonito tataki paired with Buddha’s hand) here and there.
80 Rue de Charonne, 75011 Paris
80 Rue de Charonne, 75011 Paris
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Datil
French $$$
(Bill Addison / Los Angeles Times)
Manon Fleury opened her 33-seat railroad-style space in the Marais in 2023, serving cerebral, experimental cooking that centers on vegetables and fruits. I was caught off guard last July by the lyricism of a five-course lunch: beautiful in its garden colors and juxtaposing crisp and yielding textures. A stunning centerpiece played on mille-feuille, formed from sinewy, perfectly salted zucchini strips. Its layers hid flaked morsels of skate wing among a brunoise of zucchini, parsley and shallots. Servers swooped in with two sauces poured from metal carafes: a warm beurre blanc taut with juiced kumquat and cider vinaigrette, and a cool sorrel puree drizzled in thick swirls. Savvy wine pairings complete the meal.
13 Rue des Gravilliers, 75003 Paris
13 Rue des Gravilliers, 75003 Paris
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Dreamin' Man
Coffee $
(Betty Hallock/Los Angeles Times)
The opposite of the cookie-cutter, third-wave lifestyle cafe is Dreamin’ Man, the closet of a coffee shop that first opened on Rue Amelot between Place de République and Le Marais (convenient but not overly touristed), crammed with a vintage wooden bar, bookshelves and three tiny tables. The shop is the singular vision of Yuichiro Sugiyama, who tends to every pour-over and latte. His partner, Yui Matsuzaki, crafts the pastries. They’ve since expanded to two more locations, including a roastery.
140 Rue Amelot, 75011 Paris. Multiple locations.
140 Rue Amelot, 75011 Paris. Multiple locations.
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Freddy's
French $$
(Betty Hallock/Los Angeles Times)
Freddy’s is an easy, I-just-landed-in-Paris-and-I’m-heading-straight-to-a-wine-bar stop: jam-packed, loud, fun and delicious. You’ll sit on a stool at the end of a ledge, facing a wall and a coat rack, and you’ll be in heaven as soon as the first glass of Viré-Clessé arrives (the owner also runs wine shop La Dernière Goutte around the corner) along with grilled endives covered in Gorgonzola sauce.
54 Rue de Seine, 75006 Paris
54 Rue de Seine, 75006 Paris
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Huîtrerie Régis
French $$$
(Laurie Ochoa / Los Angeles Times)
Paris is rich with bistros and restaurants that serve transcendent to meh oysters. But if you want to truly consider the oyster, Huîtrerie Régis just off the Boulevard Saint-Germain is a specialist that works with carefully chosen producers that supply the tiny shellfish bar. Your Régis respite can be as simple as a €39 sampling of six easy-to-eat Fine de Claire oysters and six firmer Spéciale de Claire oysters, from either Yves Papin or La Maison Poget, with a glass of white wine chosen by the house included. Or you might delve deeper and put together a full meal that could begin with foie gras on toast and include a €46 dozen of plump Perle Noire (black pearl) oysters or a €69 dozen of exceptional Plate du Bélon oysters, both from the famed Cadoret family. Régis also offers other shellfish, including Madagascar prawns, clams and French sea urchin (smaller and brinier than the ones we get off the coast of California). After, there is cheese and chocolate fondant cake for dessert.
3 Rue de Montfaucon, 75006 Paris
3 Rue de Montfaucon, 75006 Paris
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Kubri
Lebanese $$
(Bill Addison/Los Angeles Times)
Paris has an abundance of Lebanese restaurants, but none are quite like Kubri, the deservedly lauded draw in the 11th run by Ingrid and Mayfrid Chehlaoui and chef Rita Higgins Akar. Rarely does a Lebanese menu find such deft balance between tradition and innovation. Look for wonders like a charred wedge of cabbage rubbed in Aleppo pepper butter and pummeled with diced pickled apricot, shanklish (crumbly aged cheese) and salty-sugary peanuts. Grilled sea bass skewers wrapped in tender vine leaves or roast chicken triple-blasted with toum, black-lime labneh and lemony chicken jus are ideal for a group, or mix and match a few mezze plates for a gratifying solo lunch.
108 Rue Amelot, 75011 Paris
108 Rue Amelot, 75011 Paris
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Kunitoraya
Japanese $$
(Betty Hallock/Los Angeles Times)
Find this udon specialist just off Rue de Richelieu in between the Louvre and Palais-Royal in the neighborhood known as Little Japan. You’ll sit elbow-to-elbow with other in-the-know customers who line up for fresh springy noodles piled into bowls of steaming broth and served with garnishes such as wakame or tempura. The noodles are always expertly made, and the soups are precisely seasoned.
1 Rue Villédo, 75001 Paris
1 Rue Villédo, 75001 Paris
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Le Cheval d'Or
French-Chinese $$$
(Betty Hallock/Los Angeles Times)
The narrow Rue de la Villette feels more like a walkway than a road in the Jourdain neighborhood of the 19th, where Le Cheval d’Or oozes just as much charm as edge. Sit at the low-lit counter with a friend. The menu is a joyride of Chinese flavors spun into highly technical French and Italian dishes: shrimp toast croque madame, mapo tofu tortellini, Peking-style duck with crepes. It’s 21st-century Parisian fusion.
21 Rue de la Villette, 75019 Paris
21 Rue de la Villette, 75019 Paris
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Le Rigmarole
French-Japanese $$$
(Betty Hallock/Los Angeles Times)
Maybe your Paris visit doesn’t include lunch plans for a Franco-Japanese tasting menu that centers on precise pastas, skewers grilled over binchotan and natural wines. But it should. If you can score a reservation at the 9-year-old restaurant from chefs Jessica Yang and Robert Compagnon, you’ll find the cooking as on-point as ever. The juicy, smoky tsukune — grilled ovoid patties of minced chicken shaped around skewers and char-grilled — will haunt you.
10 Rue du Grand Prieuré, 75011 Paris
10 Rue du Grand Prieuré, 75011 Paris
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Les Deux Magots
French $$
(Jenn Harris/Los Angeles Times)
There are cafes on every corner of the Saint-Germain neighborhood, but the one I recommend most for people watching and a midday snack of fries and martinis is Les Deux Magots. Opened in 1884, it’s known as a favorite hangout for artists and writers like Ernest Hemingway and Simone de Beauvoir. I appreciate the history. I also appreciate the excellent fries and velvety hot chocolate.
6 Pl. Saint-Germain des Prés, 75006 Paris
6 Pl. Saint-Germain des Prés, 75006 Paris
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Maison Aleph
Bakery $
(Betty Hallock / Los Angeles Times )
The specialties at Syrian French pastry chef Myriam Sabet’s bakery are “nids,” tiny nests of kadayif (shredded phyllo dough) baked with clarified butter so that they’re shatteringly crisp, filled with crème pâtissière in Levantine flavors such as Iranian pistachio, saffron, sesame and Damask rose water. They’re bite-size but pack dimensions of flavor and texture. Tarts, cakes, milk pudding and flan feature seasonal fruit (lemon with cardamom is a favorite combination). Leave room for the milk chocolate halvah ice cream.
20 Rue de la Verrerie, 75004 Paris
20 Rue de la Verrerie, 75004 Paris
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Maison by Sota Atsumi
Japanese French $$$
(Bill Addison/Los Angeles Times)
Sota Atsumi earned fans as the chef at Clown Bar, and the Japanese-French tasting menu at his own restaurant is warm and communal. Most diners sit either along the counter or at a comfortable, room-length communal table under the vaunted rafters of a second-story space. The air smells of woodsmoke, transmitting expectations of casual, rustic cooking. Plating is sculptural, though, with foams and saucy dots and tiny flowers among meticulously cooked seafood and geometrically carved vegetables. Yet the mind is tricked after all: Course after course, the flavors register as shockingly soulful.
3 Rue Saint-Hubert, 75011 Paris
3 Rue Saint-Hubert, 75011 Paris
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Mamiche
Bakery $
(Betty Hallock / Los Angeles Times )
The circuit de babka in southern Pigalle includes several bakeries that have inducted the Ashkenazi chocolate-braided sweet bread into the French pastry canon. Among them are Babka Zana, Boulangerie Mamiche, Cédric Grolet and the French Bastards. I’ll partake at off-hours when the lines aren’t long, for Mamiche’s homey, dense, fudgy chocolate babka, hunks of it sold by weight.
45 Rue Condorcet, 75009 Paris. Multiple locations.
45 Rue Condorcet, 75009 Paris. Multiple locations.
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Mille & Un
Bakery French Korean $
(Jenn Harris/Los Angeles Times)
In my quest to eat as much laminated pastry as possible in Paris, I nearly ordered one of everything in the case at Mille & Un, a Korean-French bakery in the middle of the 6th. The interior of the croissant was a buttery web of laminated dough with a shell that shattered into wonderfully crisp shards of pastry. It was textbook perfect in every way, and made even more decadent split and filled with rich custard and berries. The bakery also sells fresh bread, quiche, a few sandwiches and bingsu for dessert.
32 Rue Saint-Placide, 75006 Paris
32 Rue Saint-Placide, 75006 Paris
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Mokonuts
French-Lebanese $$$
(Betty Hallock/Los Angeles Times)
Fan favorite Mokonuts achieved cult status long ago, and sliding into a corner table next to the window on a perfectly rainy day always feels like a score. Japanese American Moko Hirayama is the pastry chef (and probably had a hand in the city’s obsession with “le cookie”), and Lebanese French chef Omar Koreitem is in the tiny kitchen executing cross-cultural deliciousness. I also recently had some of the best roast chicken in Paris here. Ordering dessert cookies is, of course, a must. The pair also opened Mokochaya down Rue Saint-Bernard, a cafe for breakfast and bento.
5 Rue Saint-Bernard, 75011 Paris
5 Rue Saint-Bernard, 75011 Paris
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Ogata
Japanese $$
(Betty Hallock / Los Angeles Times )
Designer Shinichiro Ogata opened a multistory temple of tea, wagashi and art in a 17th-century hôtel particulier that includes an omakase restaurant, tea salon, gallery, shop and bar — channeling traditional Japanese crafts and similar in style to his Tokyo-based chaya and confectioneries. A favorite way to spend an afternoon is in the downstairs tea room, which offers several menus including a vegetarian brunch inspired by Shojin temple cuisine.
16 Rue Debelleyme, 75003 Paris
16 Rue Debelleyme, 75003 Paris
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Oobatz
Pizza $$
(Bill Addison/Los Angeles Times)
American-style pizza in Paris? In a word: Yes. Maine native Dan Pearson opened the restaurant in collaboration with the owners of Le Rigmarole after a string of sold-out pop-ups. Pearson uses a sourdough base for his bready crusts, which puff and char around the edges as they cook and remain pliably crisp in the center. The menu rotates five or six pizzas, crowned with meat-tomato-cheese variations that might include fennel-studded sausage or mortadella meatballs, and the occasional white pie arranged with the season’s vegetables, or dotted with lacy splotches of duck ragu.
4bis Av. Jean Aicard, 75011 Paris
4bis Av. Jean Aicard, 75011 Paris
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Otto
French $$
(Laurie Ochoa / Los Angeles Times)
The Latin Quarter’s cobblestone Rue Mouffetard is a walking street for food lovers lined with fishmongers, bakeries, cheese shops, produce stands and cafes. Once you’ve talked triple-cream Brillat-Savarin with the cheese pros at Androuet and admired displays of glistening seafood along Mouffetard (Poissonnerie Quoniam sells fresh oysters that you eat standing with an inexpensive glass of wine), there is lunch or dinner to consider. A wonderful choice is Otto, a modern izakaya-style project with MOF chef Eric Trochon, who provided menu guidance to proprietors Stéphane Offner and Tony Alvarez-Parage plus occasional turns at the binchotan-fueled grill when he’s not running his Michelin one-star restaurant Solstice 700 meters away. Observe the action in the open kitchen from your bar seat or find an intimate corner to enjoy Otto’s small plates — maybe “fish no chips” with black curry mayonnaise, razor clams with garlic butter, smoky grilled eggplant or celery root beignets — along with a glass of wine from the well-curated list. Oh, and at lunch you can choose three dishes for €22. A terrific deal.
5 Rue Mouffetard, 75005 Paris
5 Rue Mouffetard, 75005 Paris
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Plénitude
French $$$$
(Bill Addison/Los Angeles Times)
Debating three-star blowouts in Paris is a subgenre for the deep-pocketed. For fine-dining devotees, Plénitude — the ne-plus-ultra splurge (€495 per person) in the Cheval Blanc hotel, with its almost comically scenic perch at the edge of the Seine overlooking the Pont Neuf bridge — is worth the investment. Plan six or so months ahead to score a reservation. The cuisine centers around chef Arnaud Donckele’s mastery over sauces. Diners might switch location for one course, and those who opt for a cheese course rise from their chairs to make selections from a walk-in cabinet that opens at the end of one room. The whole experience feels at once very worldly, and very Parisian.
8 Quai du Louvre, 75001 Paris
8 Quai du Louvre, 75001 Paris
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Restaurant Le Duc
Seafood $$$
(Bill Addison/Los Angeles Times)
A destination for luxury seafood dining since the late 1960s, and a 15-minute walk from Luxembourg Garden in the 14th, Le Duc personifies midcentury Parisian elegance: rich wood paneling, career servers with sly humor, simple and impeccable seafood. Dinner might begin with lovely crab salad, cleaned entirely of shell, and segue to the signature: gorgeous, finely textured sole meunière presented in a copper pan before filleting. Among desserts displayed on a roving cart, home in on crunching, gorgeously proportioned mille-feuille.
243 Bd. Raspail, 75014 Paris
243 Bd. Raspail, 75014 Paris
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Soces
French $$
(Laurie Ochoa / Los Angeles Times)
Soces, chic without pretension, ambitious without ostentation, is worth the Uber ride outside of Paris’ tourist bubble. Chef Marius de Ponfilly, known from his time at Clamato, and co-founder Kevin Deulio, formerly of the Ritz Paris’ Bar Vendôme, chose the evolving Belleville neighborhood in the 19th for Soces. It has unadorned wood floors, rough stone walls and view into the glassed-in kitchen that serves a menu, changeable and seasonal, which might begin with oysters or crisp-fried smelts and include red tuna carpaccio, blood sausage or a whole fish to share.
32 Rue de la Villette, 75019 Paris
32 Rue de la Villette, 75019 Paris
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Substance Café
Coffee $
(Bill Addison / Los Angeles Times)
The most dedicated coffee obsessives should plan ahead for the reservations-only bar run by barista Joachim Morceau and his wife, Alexandrine. Morceau has showmanship behind the counter, but he’s intensely serious about his craft. The couple roast their own beans, sourcing small batches from farmers around the world. Morceau often encourages every person to start with one featured coffee to grasp individual tastes, and then he starts making excellent suggestions, equally compelling for pour-overs or milky espresso drinks. Note that Substance opens at 12:30 p.m. The place is more about a tasting experience than the morning caffeine fix.
30 Rue Dussoubs, 75002 Paris
30 Rue Dussoubs, 75002 Paris
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Table by Bruno Verjus
French $$$$
(Laurie Ochoa / Los Angeles Times)
One of the most interesting thinkers about food and the world beyond is Bruno Verjus, the culinary outsider who was a medical device entrepreneur, then blogger, then food critic, then chef and owner of the third-best restaurant in the world, according to the World’s 50 Best guide in 2024. Now at No. 8 in last year’s ranking, his two-Michelin-starred restaurant is pricey with a €480 tasting menu. But if you are up for a splurge, a seat at the serpentine metal bar or curved booth provides an up-close view of Verjus’ team of young, excellent chefs at work. Table breaks down the traditional barriers between diners and the kitchen and forgoes the ceremonial formal service you may have experienced in other Michelin restaurants. Often, Verjus himself will greet guests and regale them with his theories on art and cuisine — and why he believes à la minute cooking preserves the vitality of the seasonal ingredients he loves to use. Some ingredients are pure luxury — gorgeous lobster or a chocolate tart topped with a sizable dollop of caviar, not purely for the decadence but because Verjus is intrigued with the way the salty roe adds a dimension of umami to the chocolate. Other dishes are built around a single seasonal vegetable — artichoke, for instance — that is treated with the same love and care as the lobster.
3 Rue de Prague, 75012 Paris
3 Rue de Prague, 75012 Paris
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Tapisserie
Bakery $
(Betty Hallock / Los Angeles Times )
Late spring heading into early summer might be my favorite season at sunny, stylish pastry shop Tapisserie, when the small case is stocked with extra-flaky apricot tartlettes, cherry-studded cake, peaches preserved in syrup, chaussons aux pommes (apple hand pies) bolstered with rhubarb, and choux puffs sandwiching hay-infused cream. On any day, any time of year, I’d also opt for pain Suisse, buttery laminated dough filled with chocolate-studded, silky vanilla pastry cream that inevitably gushes when you bite into it.
65 Rue de Charonne, 75011 Paris
65 Rue de Charonne, 75011 Paris
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Le Tagine
Moroccan $$
(Bill Addison/Los Angeles Times)
Marie-Jose Mimoun waves you toward a tiled table in her restaurant, run by her and her family at the edge of the Oberkampf neighborhood for 40 years. You’re here for tagines, couscous and a deep, surprising list of complementary natural wines. Lamb flavored with raisins, onions, honey and almonds was still among the best tagines I’ve tasted outside Morocco. Ditto the couscous, served with plenty of broth and smoky harissa full of tightly knotted spices. Be on the lookout for the placard advertising seasonal dishes made with, say, artichokes in the spring or peaches in the summer.
13 Rue de Crussol, 75011 Paris
13 Rue de Crussol, 75011 Paris
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Télescope Café
Coffee $
(Bill Addison/Los Angeles Times)
Begin at Télescope Café, located on a cobbled side street and presided over by Nicolas Clerc, regarded by many as the (still young) godfather of Paris’ fourth-wave coffee movement, emphasizing unusually expressive coffees. Clerc’s iced coffee is chocolatey and refreshing on summer days. I admire his long list of pour-over options listed by growing region and tasting notes in order of intensity. Banana bread slathered with salted butter tends to sell out early. Télescope closes on Saturdays and Sundays.
5 Rue Villédo, 75001 Paris
5 Rue Villédo, 75001 Paris
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Urfa Dürüm
Kurdish $
(Betty Hallock / Los Angeles Times )
If there is a trifecta of top Paris sandwich shops, Urfa Dürüm is among them (along with L’As du Fallafel and Caractère de Cochon). As famous as this spot is, I came across it accidentally while staying in the 10th and immediately was hooked by the yufka, flatbread freshly rolled throughout the day in the front window. It’s wrapped around grilled, smoky Urfa kebabs of minced fatty lamb or beef seasoned with Urfa biber chiles, herbs and sumac — a preparation originating from southeastern Turkey. Each tightly rolled cylinder of a wrap is made to order with only fresh vegetables, no sauce: simple and perfect.
58 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis, 75010 Paris
58 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis, 75010 Paris
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