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Egg tarts from Grace & Wheat Bakery in Alhambra.
Egg tarts from Grace & Wheat Bakery in Alhambra.
(Brandon Ly / Los Angeles Times )

7 of the best Portuguese-style egg tarts in L.A.

Egg tarts are the only food obsession I held as a child that never waned in adulthood. They served as a primary motivator as a toddler. Clean my room? Finish my homework? Dan tat, the egg tarts found on dim sum carts, were always the answer.

I grew up eating Hong Kong-style egg tarts, with pale, glossy tops and nests of either crumbly, cookie-adjacent shortcrust or flaky pastry. They were usually cold, and the filling more like firm Jell-O than custard. Still, I was hooked. When someone brought a box of warm Macau tarts to a mahjong gathering at my grandmother’s house in the early ‘90s, I crushed out on the palm-sized pastry like it was the latest single from Boyz II Men.

While the Hong Kong tarts can be traced to custard tarts from the United Kingdom, Macau tarts are descendants of Portuguese pastéis de nata (until 1999, Macau was a Portuguese colony). Dozens of layers of crisp pastry cradle a crème brûlée-adjacent filling with a glistening top blistered in a scorching hot oven. The shell crackles and the custard trembles, for a confluence of textures that’s addictive and almost maddening. If I’m going to eat a tart, it might as well be three.

When Nata’s Pastries opened in a Sherman Oaks strip mall more than 20 years ago, it was the only Portuguese bakery in the city. Now, you can find Macau tarts and pastéis de nata at restaurants and bakeries all over Los Angeles. The following are seven places that should jump-start your own egg tart obsession.

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Barra Santos

Cypress Park Portuguese $$
The egg tart from Barra Santos in Cypress Park.
(Jenn Harris / Los Angeles Times )
Barra Santos has a full menu of Portuguese-leaning classics, like bolo de caco and bacalhau fritters. And for dessert, there are some of the tiniest pasteis de nata in all of Los Angeles, petite enough to finish in a single, ambitious bite. They are not available for takeout, and depending on what time you visit, they will most likely be sold out. But with a thin, flaky crust and a silky smooth center, it’s a tart worthy of the hunt. Maybe ask your server to put one on hold as soon as you sit down.
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Grace & Wheat Bakery

Alhambra Bakery
Egg tarts from Grace & Wheat Bakery in Alhambra.
(Brandon Ly / Los Angeles Times )
The new Grace & Wheat Bakery in Alhambra may be best known for its elaborate birthday cakes, but it’s also home to a unique style of egg tart. The dozens of layers of crust are scalloped, thin and thick in parts, with some edges ballooning and threatening to overtake the custard in the center. The glossy, brûléed top acts as a gel-like layer above the silky custard, which oddly enough, tastes vaguely of coconut. It works.
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HiBake

Beverly Hills Bakery $$
Egg tarts from HiBake in Beverly Hills.
(Jenn Harris / Los Angeles Times)
The French custard egg tarts from HiBake are extra decadent, with rich, thick custard that eats like excellent pudding. The bakery is known best for its croissants and a variety of egg tarts that include blueberry and matcha. Each features a signature scalloped crust about 1,000 layers thick. The Chinese bakery chain opened its first U.S. location just off the Beverly Cañon Gardens opposite the Maybourne Hotel. Which means you can eat your tarts while basking in the sunshine of the public garden.
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Jim's Bakery

Monterey Park Bakery $
Egg tarts from Jim's Bakery in Monterey Park.
(Jenn Harris / Los Angeles Times )
This family-run Monterey Park bakery has been around since 1992, located in a strip mall off Atlantic Boulevard. Jim’s set the gold standard for egg tarts decades ago. The Hong Kong-style tarts deliver the nostalgia of devouring dim sum dan tat as a kid, only the filling is more velvety and the crust richer. The Portuguese-style, called PO tarts at Jim’s, feature heavily mottled tops and an ultra thin crust that barely contains the custard. The subtly sweet filling wobbles with each bite, as if the tarts were plucked from the oven the moment they approached solidity. If you want to impress your mahjong group, your grandmother or you in-laws, you show up with a box of Jim’s.
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NaiSnow Tea and Bakery

San Gabriel Valley Teahouse Bakery $
The egg tart from Naisnow in San Gabriel.
(Jenn Harris / Los Angeles Times )
NaiSnow is a massive chain of Chinese tea shops and bakeries that can be found all over Southeast Asia. The San Gabriel shop opened in the Hilton Plaza earlier this year, with a pastry case full of both sweet and savory tarts. Some of the tart shells are filled with chunky potato salad flecked with bacon, or miniature sausages. There are both matcha and coffee-dusted tiramisu tarts. But the tarts disappearing at lightning speed are the caramel egg tarts. The crust is brittle, with dozens of layers that break away in big shards of pastry. The caramel name is deceiving, with the blistered custard registering as ultra eggy and barely sweet. There will be a line, but it moves quickly.
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Nata's Pastries

Sherman Oaks Portuguese Bakery $$
An egg tart from Natas Pastries in Sherman Oaks
(Jenn Harris / Los Angeles Times )
Lisbon native Fatima Marques opened Nata’s Pastries in the summer of 2005. The Sherman Oaks bakery and cafe is Marques’ homage to her hometown, with a bakery case teeming with traditional Portueguese pastries. She imports ingredients from Portugal, uses specific pans and retrofitted her oven to reach 750 degrees to create tarts that accurately resemble the ones she loved as a child. The multilayered puff pastry shell is wonderfully crisp, and the lavish eggy center beautifully freckled.
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Saffy's Coffee & Tea

East Hollywood Levantine $$
The Portuguese egg tart from Saffy's is available during daytime hours or until they sell out.
(Jenn Harris / Los Angeles Times )
If you’re lucky, you’ll find a Portuguese egg tart or two in the pastry case at Saffy’s, Genevieve Gergis and Ori Menashe’s East Hollywood restaurant. Available during daytime hours only, or until they run out, the tarts register as more of a savory pastry than dessert. Gergis’ crust is pie-like, with thin but sturdy, well-baked walls and a pronounced buttery flavor. The custard in the center is barely set, smooth and supple. If I could, I’d eat an entire bowl of it.
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