The ultimate birthday cake has berries and whipped cream cheese frosting

Make the cake: Line the bottoms of three 8- or 9-inch cake pans with parchment paper and spray the bottom and sides with cooking spray. Set aside. Adjust the oven racks so one is in the center position and heat the oven to 350°F.

Using a fine mesh sifter, sift the flour, baking powder and baking soda together into a large bowl. Add the salt and stir with a whisk to combine. Set aside.

Combine the butter and sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment (or a large bowl if you’re using a handheld mixer) and beat over medium-high speed until the butter is lightened in color, fluffy and creamy, 2 to 3 minutes, stopping to scrape down the paddle and bowl as the butter accumulates. (It is possible to overwhip butter; you don’t want to beat it so long that the butter gets warm and greasy.) Add the egg yolks one at a time, beating at medium-low speed for about 15 seconds until incorporated before adding the next egg.

After all the eggs are incorporated, add the vanilla and mix on medium-low speed just to incorporate, 5 to 10 seconds. Add about one-third of the dry ingredients and mix on low to combine. Add about half of the buttermilk and continue to stir to combine. Repeat with another third of the flour and the remaining buttermilk, and finally add the remaining dry ingredients and stir to combine. Scrape the bottom of the bowl to loosen any ingredients that may be stuck, then give the batter a few final turns to ensure everything is fully incorporated. Set aside.

Put the egg whites in a medium bowl or the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. Beat at medium speed until foamy and no longer translucent, about 1 to 2 minutes. Increase the speed to high and beat until the egg whites have soft peaks — whites should hold their shape, but the peaks droop/slump when you lift up the beaters — another 1 to 2 minutes. If you used a stand mixer and don’t have a second bowl for it, gently transfer them to a bowl, taking care not to deflate them.

Add the egg whites to the batter and gently fold them in with a spatula, folding them in only until they’re just incorporated, keeping the batter as aerated as possible.

Bake the cakes until a toothpick comes out clean and the cake springs back when lightly pressed with your finger, rotating them if they are browning unevenly, about 20 to 22 minutes for 9-inch cakes and about 22 to 24 minutes for 8-inch cakes. Remove the cakes from the oven and let them cool fully in the pans for at least 1 hour.

Make the frosting: Combine the cream cheese, mascarpone and crème fraîche in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment and beat on medium speed until combined, about 1 minute. Stop and scrape down the bowl and paddle with a spatula. Add the vanilla and salt and mix on medium speed to combine. Scrape down the bowl and add the powdered sugar; start on low speed to moisten it and keep it from flying out of the bowl, about 30 seconds. Increase the speed to medium and beat until it’s incorporated, about 1 minute. Take the bowl off the stand. Clean the paddle and scrape down the bowl. Set aside while you whip the cream.

Chill the clean bowl and beaters in the freezer for a few minutes. Remove them from the freezer. Whip the cream at high speed until stiff peaks form, about 2 minutes and 30 seconds (slightly longer if you are using a handheld mixer and a stainless steel mixing bowl).

Add the whipped cream to the frosting and gently fold it in with a spatula until combined. The finished frosting should look like a cloud and hold billowy peaks. Refrigerate the frosting until you’re ready to use it or for at least 20 to 30 minutes to chill. You can make the frosting the night before; if it becomes stiff, loosen by whisking in a tablespoon of cream to help ease of decorating.

When the cakes are cooled, invert them to remove them from the pans. Peel off and discard the parchment paper. Invert again so the domed sides are facing up. Use a long serrated knife to slice off the domed part (there will be very little dome) of the cakes so the tops are flat.

Decorating is easiest on a cake board with a turntable or directly onto a cake stand or plate. Stack your first cake layer onto your chosen base. Spread half of the jam over the cake layer, leaving a 3/4-inch rim with no jam. Scatter half of the berries evenly over the cake layer, or about ⅓ cup (55 grams) of each type of your four berries on each layer for a total of about 1 ⅓ cups (220 grams ) of berries. Spoon 1 cup (160 grams) of the frosting over the berries on the cake and use an offset spatula to spread it in an even layer to the edges. Place another cake layer on top, spread the remaining jam, scatter 1 1/3 cups berries and spread another cup of frosting. Top with the final undressed cake layer. Frost the top and sides with another 1 1/2 cups (240 grams) of frosting, using your offset spatula to smooth the edges. Use the remaining frosting and about 2 ⅔ (440 grams) cups berries to decorate; a piping bag and tips can dress it up fast. Put the cake and frosting in the refrigerator if it is getting too loose and warm. When finished decorating, refrigerate the cake until you’re ready to serve.