DINING OUT:Billy’s a New York state of mind

Every time I walk into Billy’s Deli & Cafe, I feel like I should be wearing a Yankees’ baseball cap and checking my pockets to see if I have enough change for the subway. Times Square should be right outside. The Yankees should be on the television (and winning). And the pastrami on rye should be a mile high. Well, at least, I can always count on Billy’s to fulfill one wish.

On my annual pilgrimage to New York City, I must do two things — catch a game at Yankee Stadium and eat at an East Coast deli, where sandwiches are packed with fresh, lean meat taller than the Empire State Building and the matzo ball soup has that light, melt-in-your-mouth texture, but is strong enough to cure the common cold. And there better be side orders of crunchy dill pickles that make your lips curl just a little. Since 1948, Billy’s has given us East Coast deli lovers a much cheaper and easier-to-find alternative.

One glance at the “Wall of Food” exterior and you realize this is no ordinary restaurant. Original owner Frank “Billy” Whitten’s son, Lee, cast the wall using molds he made from real chunks of salami, bread, cheese and wine casks.

The simple, bright interior with the black-and-white checkered floor, comfortable booths and large deli and bakery counters make guests feel welcome rather than bombarded with the artificial retro so common in chains today. Casual surroundings pay tribute to the past, but the generous portions and affordable prices are the real tribute to a simpler time.

The menu offers an almost endless variety of sandwiches, from hot corned beef to cold turkey and many classic combinations in between. They also offer a great homemade chili, several salads and juicy hamburgers that make you regret the day you ever ate one of those dismal fast-food excuses.

Side dishes are plentiful as well, from the old-fashioned potato salad, just like grandma used to make, to a simple mound of cottage cheese. And never forget the crunchy dill pickles.

On a recent Thursday night, we stopped by for the corned beef and cabbage dinner served with boiled potatoes. We snacked on the traditional bowl of crunchy dill pickles while we waited. My cousin Ron had a house salad while I enjoyed a small bowl of the chicken noodle soup that just whetted our appetites for the main course.

Soon, our corned beef arrived, cut thin and piled high over a mound of boiled cabbage and beside a generous portion of soft boiled potatoes. Homemade never tasted so good.

The menu has too many other choices, from the all-American turkey dinner with the fixings to Cajun chicken. And, since this is an old-fashioned delicatessen, you can always try the knockwurst plate or the more expensive assorted smoked fish plate, washed down with an egg cream, glass of buttermilk, or black-and-white soda.

Or finish your meal with a root-beer float or slice of strawberry cheesecake.

Billy’s also offers vegetarian, diet and children’s entrees. Or you could always order breakfast. It’s served all day. And don’t forget to take home some cookies from the bakery counter.

The great service remains the best part of any visit to Billy’s. Where in Los Angeles can you be greeted by a waitress with a thick New York accent that apologizes for her bad jokes? I once sat down with a bad cold and ordered soup that just did not taste right.

Overhearing our conversation, the waitress brought me a bowl of chicken noodle soup with lots of sympathy and a guarantee I would feel better. And after soup and a tall, hot pastrami on rye, not only was I back in a New York state of mind, but I felt much better. Of course, those bad jokes helped, too.